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superquag , as usual you have it all stuffed up !!
That locking tab as it is , wont do anything unless you bend the tabs over . It is the bending over of the tab that is supposed to lock bearing preload .was yours BENT over?
obviously it must have been !!!Sounds to me that the succession of bad mechanics that have attended your machine have led to its condition .
Hello James
:( lock washers bent over like in this pic to stop the nuts from turning
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...011/12/239.jpg
Otherwise very dangerous to drive as wheel could come off.
Brad:(
Quote:"BOTH nuts/plate rotated as a unit as I pushed/twisted the screwdriver.....:o"
Doesn't matter whether it is a keyway as I described or a flat, the idea is that the lock washer is held stationary. You fit the adjusting nut against the bearing thrust washer and adjust to the correct tension, then you fit the lock washer and bend over one section of it inwards to hold the adjusting nut in it's correct position. Then you fit the outer lock nut and do it up FT, then you bend the same lock washer outwards to lock the locking nut, so if done right nothing moves. If you can turn both nuts and the locking washer together then you have a NON LOCKING WASHER THAT DOES FA. The lock washer MUST engage with the centre hub tube to locate and stop the lock washer and the nuts coming undone, hope this is clear, Regards Frank.
Now you will confuse him Bradtot , that picture shows the early model tooth and slot style , his is the later model D-ring . Still , the tab bending is the same at least .
Quote:
Originally Posted by 400HPONGAS
The bending is all I wanted him to see as per Franks description above as well
:)
Nice picture. - Thats how I bent the tabs when I put it back together. Correctly, as everyone is so kindly concerned about...Quote:
Originally Posted by Bradtot
But now the two nuts are tighter against each other, (60Nm outer) sandwiching the locking washer, not 'finger-tight' as the outer was when I disassembled it.
The Big concern was the exact pattern/type/etc of this 12 pointed caliper bolt. Could have been a Triple-square, Spline-Drive or Double-Hex, all have 12 points but slightly differant shaped.. I've never come across these before, only external and internal HEX. - Normal and Allen-heads. -Must have led a sheltered life regarding bolts.... though I do remember square ones!
Superquag, how do you explain this Quote:"BOTH nuts/plate rotated as a unit as I pushed/twisted the screwdriver.....:o"
If you could, as you said, turn the nuts and lockwasher, then our concern was that you didn't have a lockwasher that locates on the hub centre tube, if that is so then the nuts will eventually undo and the wheel will come adrift.
So one last time, DOES THE LOCKWASHER LOCATE ITSELF ON THE CENTRE HUB TUBE OR DOES IT ROTATE AS YOU HAVE STATED. Regards Frank.
Yes, it does, sort of. Manufacturing tolerances plus the entrails of a goat allow it to rotate a little. If the nuts are TIGHT against it, then the high lateral force at right-angles to the direction of the threads will result in Huge Amounts of Friction which will not allow ANY rotation from a gentle force applied.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tank
Detailed explanation:-
Its my fault, in that I did'nt define the amount of 'Rotation', and that's gotten everyone worried.:o:o:o
Lets take it from the top. And I'm going to use lots of words doing it ! :p
First, I read up Section 54 "Front Axle And Final Drive" RAVE manual, noting torque settings and order of assembley.
Looking at FRONT HUB ASSEMBLEY
Service repair no - 60.25.01.
'Remove'
Step 2 started all this, with my unfamiliarity with the exact nature and correct name of these 12 pointed bolts...
When I came to step 6, "Bend back Lock washer tabs" I inserted a flat screwdriver blade between the nut and the bent washer. Then I started to wriggle & twist it - as you do - to work it deeper....
This twisting action caused the 2 nuts and sandwiched washer to rotate several degrees, to the extent of tolerance allowed for by the "D" hole. It was not a powerful twist, it barely got started when the small rotation happened.
If the 'Lock Nut' had been correctly tightened at manufacture or at a previous servicing, , then there should have been ZERO movement with the amount of force applied.
At this point I exchanged the screwdriver for a chisel and gently tapped the flat away from said nut. As I wiped the nut (counter-clockwise rotation) it proceeded to undo. :eek:
According to the RAVE instructions, I expected this outer nut to be done up to 61Nm. (step 16, "refit") It obviously was not at 61 NM ...I doubt if my fingesr could move SIX Nm.
This WAS the loose nut, (the insane nut bought the car...) It is now a correctly tightened nut. the wheel will not fall off for any reason connected to this or the other nut ("Hub adjusting nut" , J5370M) Today I drove over 20 km on the Powelines Track, and then speed limits on highways back home. Wheel is still there.
Locking washer is bent over in differant directions, over each nut. As specified.
I'm pleased to announce that the bearings are in good nick, re-greased, and correct adjustment has yielded the expected benefit. :D:D:D
And best of all, I'm now conversant with the 12 pointed bolts holding the calipers on. Again.
Cheers, James.