Reply With QuoteProbably a dead cell in the battery, likely it's scrap.
AT REST
Was given an Optima Blue top Marine battery, part Deep Cycle (D/C) part cranking.
This battery has been sitting for 12 months without a charge, it measured 7.5 volts.
Using my Durst Gel-Tech charger (12V/4amp.) I charged it for 24 hours straight and it measured 12.1volts.
Another 12 hours of charging and the charger is still on full charge rate, Orange light denotes charge, Green light denotes Float Charge. The battery was warm, not hot and the reading was between 12.2 Volts and 12.3.
The charger was not hot, but the fan was running, I've disconnected the charger till the battery gets cold again.
I just went out and checked the voltage, with battery cold and it was down to 10.7Volts.
I have reconnected the charger and with the multimeter on the charger clips while connected to the battery it reads 12.5 Volts. Remove the clips and the charger reads 13.9 Volts.
Question: Is this battery cactus or should I keep charging, if the battery gets warm does it mean it's buggered, any info appreciated, Regards Frank.
AT REST
Probably a dead cell in the battery, likely it's scrap.
AT REST
Probably right, anything I can do, besides scrapping, anyway to fix, grabbing at straws here I know, Regards Frank.
ForumSage
Clutching at fragile straws.....
Your battery charger is the wrong type and too small for an OPTIMA. Its meant for GEL-type lead acid batteries, such as golf-carts.
Normally I'd sing the praises of a C-TEK (brand) charger, but its a LOT of $$$ for a 66% chance of getting your deaded battery up and running. Bought mine when before the GFC, when I had lots of money... Today I'd go for the JAYCAR knock-off...
This link will only give you bad news...
Optima Battery FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions
You could try their suggestion at the end of the article, - worth a go as the Forum experts agree that its likely stuffed. !
The Good News is the $2.00 that a scrap metal merchant will pay you. Maybe.
Master
SupporterI had a similar problem with some 200aH lead acid Trojans. They were allowed to drop to about 8volts. I found that using two battery chargers connected at once helped overcome the sulfation resistance. After two days the voltage was back up over 13volts (testing the next day after removing the chargers to avoid a false reading due to surface charge). I then drained them using some 12volts tail light globes and re charged them. After doing this a few times I can now charge them up to 13.8 volts. So if you can borrow a second charger it might be worth trying.
RoverLord
give it the toaster treatment first without going over 13.8V..
as per the link a couple of old school not messing about batteries hooked up in parrallel will help dump the required amps into it....
IME about 30% will come back to 80% nominal capacity or better, about half make it back to between 60 and 80% which is okish for an older battery that your not using all that much and the rest just fail
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
ForumSage
Look on the bright side, 60 to 80% of an OPTIMA is as good as some cheapie batteries !!!!
Worth a try.
AT REST
Superquag,
Quote:"Your battery charger is the wrong type and too small for an OPTIMA. Its meant for GEL-type lead acid batteries, such as golf-carts."
I have used this charger for a number of years now on every type of battery from my sealed 12V in my prawn light to large Cat Dozer batteries and have never had a problem. My mate has the same charger for his Optima Blue tops in his boat, he leaves them connected all the time, except when out fishing, never had a problem with being too small, Regards Frank.
Durst SMART Chargers Solve Battery Problems
One charger to suit all types of batteries: Gel-AGM (Maintenance Free) & Flooded (Wet) Lead Calcium-
Lead Acid-VRLA Deep cycle etc
How our Fully Automatic BCS-A Series Charger works:
SMART Charger provides a fast, safe and accurate charge with a three stage charge sequence:
1st stage - Bulk:
The battery is charged at full rated output current of the charger until the battery reaches the absorption voltage. In this stage 60%-70%
of the battery’s capacity is replaced.
2nd stage - Absorption:
The charging current falls steadily and the battery voltage stays at the absorption
Voltage level while the remaining 30%-40% of capacity is replaced.
3rd stage - Float:
When the battery is fully charged. The charger voltage is decreased and is held constantly at the set float voltage. This float charging
voltage will not damage the battery but replenishes any loss of internal Battery discharge.Multi Channel Outputs available on our other BCS ranges.
RoverLord
Optimas will take a mammoth charge rate due to their composition and construction...
the downfall of the optima style battery is the flip side of its strong points, nothing really delivers such durable power as the optima and it gets this from the fine mesh composition of the plates and the Gel nature of the electrolyte . The drawback this creates is that the battery becomes very susceptible to the equivalent of sulphation if left in a semi-discharged or discharged state.
During the early stages this process is reversible in a normal battery due to the space around the plates and the liquid nature of the electrolyte.
If you catch it early enough toasting (or using a battery zpper) an optima carefully will bring it back, just not usually as well as a normal battery.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
ForumSage
G'day Tank,
I'm still gunna stick to my guns and say that the charger you have is too small for the application in hand...- Bringing back from the DEAD, a high-capacity battery. I should have been more specific...
- Assuming yours is this one, 4 AMP output and around $140, then the manufacturer rates it for batteries up to 40 A/H capacity.
http://www.batteriesdirect.com.au/sh...679/1204g.html
That does'nt mean it won't maintain or charge a partially used battery in good nick, just take its time doing it.
Blknight makes some good points regarding OPTIMA's capacity to be resurrected. Or lack of it.
- I've got a little automatic 1 amp (MAX rate...) charger that looks after a N70Z, even though it is a motor-bike battery charger.
It also used to float-charge a pair of 6 volt UPS batteries of several hundred big, fat amp-hours. But it would never re-charge them from flat...
Your Cat. Dozer batteries would be standard lead-acids, not OPTIMA AGL's, so they would see the DURST as a pleasant-mannered little float-charger.
Despite the above, leave your charger hooked up for a few days/weeks, the unit should look after itself.. Happy to be proved rongg.
Or you could start your car and put jumpers onto the Blue-Top and charge it a lot faster (at the alternator's higher rate...) and see how that goes.
At over $240 or so, I'm not going to stick my neck out and suggest a 7 AMP C-TEK as being big enough to do the deed, despite its technology / my opinion of it.!
cheers,
James
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