Reply With Quoteany job is always alot easier with the right tools, even if it costs you a bit extra
Master
Dear all,
I just thought I would share my experience of changing the timing belt in my disco which I did over the christmas break, so others may not make the same mistakes I did.
The first obstacle that really caused problems, which is the same for probably everyone was undoing the crankshaft pulley bolt. I had read on here about bracing a breaker bar against the chassis rail while you flick the starter key. Now I may have done something wrongbut this was the result:
The crankshaft turned.... but so did my socket!
Now you may be thinking, "he obviously buys cheap tools" but this was from a decent sidchrome socket set????
Anyway, fortunately my neighbour is a diesel mechanic so I was able to borrow his breaker bar. However, I did not use the starter to undo the bolt, I persevered and managed to get my home made flywheel locking pin into place (auto) and out came the bolt.
This brings me neatly to the second issue encountered, the flywheel locking pin. I made one up from an 8.8 high tensile bolt according to the picture that is posted on here somewhere. When is came to doing the crankshaft pulley back up... the bolt complained and decided to let go
Fortunately I managed to get the bolt correctly done up just as it failed, but after alot of farting about I still wasnt able to retrieve the piece that snapped off...
The car has started several times and been driven a reasonable amount, so I can only assume the piece has fallen out of the drain hole at the bottom of the bell housing by itself..... but still not really cool at all....
Believe it or not I would do the job again, but with a better locking pin i.e. M14x1.5 HT bolt drilled all the way through the centre with a 12.9 HT 3/16" pin mounted in it. It would give you a much better feel for finding the timing mark on the flywheel correctly and it would be much stronger at the same time.
These are all lessons others have probably already learnt, but just thought I would share them for those that haven't....
Matt
Master
any job is always alot easier with the right tools, even if it costs you a bit extra
AT REST
First up, you don't rotate the engine with a socket bar and socket on the crank snout bolt, you disconnect the fuel solenoid wire, then you just click the starter, on/off, you don't wind the engine over as you obviously have done here.
Second the device for holding the flywheel in the correct TDC position is NOT an engine locking device, it is only used for locating and holding the engine at TDC.
If I was you I would rotate the engine to TDC and check that the pin that snapped off is not in the flywheel, if it is it will cause the engine to be out of balance, not much, but out. Also if it is still in there and comes out while the engine is running it may get caught up and cause some damage, Regards Frank.
Master
Yeah, I spent a fair while checking for the snapped off piece including checking the flywheel itself to ensure it wasn't still lodged in there.I was most nervous when starting for the first time, after the starter disengages once running the risk of damage is considerably reduced, and now the engine has run, and the vehicle has travelled some distance I'm pretty sure the piece would have found it's way out.
If you don't use the pin in the flywheel to hold the engine when torquing back up, what do you use hold it?
Cheers, Matt
AT REST
There is a spanner which can be made which bolts (4 bollts) to the crank pulley/dampner, where you would bolt on the puller to remove the pulley/dampner. There is a pic of one in one of the tutorials, made by a fellow forum member, probably in the "Good Oil" section of this forum. I usually set the breaker bar about an inch (25mm) above the pass. side chassis rail, disconnect the fuel solenoid wire on the IP and then hold the key and turn it on and off as quick as possible, the engine only rotates a few inches and I have never had a crank bolt not undo, better luck next time. As that is a Sidchrome knuckle bar take it back and see if they will honour the lifetime warranty, LOL, Regards Frank.
ForumSage
Hi MattOriginally Posted by Matplat
Try this, I did make my own version.
DIFFLOCK - TDi Crank Pulley Locking Tool
.
ChatterBox
Always looking for lessons learned Matt, cheers. This is my next service attempt. I'm considering buying all the tools though. Difflock has a whole set of tools for this that cost about AU$220. I'm in the process of searching for some cheaper options, but I'm not a fan of putting a breaker bar against the chassis and flicking the engine... Sounds dodgy at best!
Once the bolt was undone, how did you go sliding the pulley off? Come off easy enough?
Wizard
Most times the crank pulley comes off with hand pressure, but a harmonic balancer puller kit may be necessary ( ie a bit bigger than a steering wheel puller but not as big as a hydraulic gear puller if you get the drift).
Provided the right loctite was used, I've found that a flywheel locking bolt is sufficient to hold the crank in place whilst a longish breaker bar releases the crank bolt- my bolt has no taper, just a 5mm x 5mm spigot..
Master
You said there that it is an auto, if so you don't have a flywheel you have a drive plate which I didn't think had a locating hole and you would have just been locating the bolt into the ring gear which not only could damage the ring gear, not line up your TDC correctly but also has the potential of damaging an already rather fragile drive plate.
I have found as far as undoing the crank pully as Tank says with the sol disconnected a quick flick on the starter with the breaker bar already hard against the chassis rail is sufficient with Mid strength loctite but by far the easiest way is with a rattle gun.
Same for doing it up.
To locate TDC on an auto you just line up all the points with the old belt on and highlight them with a marker pen to make sure you can see if they move and then keep the crank woodruff key straight up and your home free.
I have done it with the crank bolt in and I found it makes it hard to get the belt on without moving everything else.
With the crank not locked in place everything can move that little bit and then you can just realign everything check your pump setting and lock it all up again.
Thats the theory but then again, in practice things are different for everyone.
Cheers Casper
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