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Thread: top hat liner

  1. #1
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    top hat liner

    What eactly is a top hat liner?

    I know what it does which is stop the liner from slipping, is it a completely new liner with a lip so the block needs machining?

    My 4.6 is a straight swap, second hand one and am wondering if I should be concerned about it and how major the conversion is?

  2. #2
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    Top hat liners look like upside down top hats, hence the name.

    The flange part of the liner sits in a groove machined in the block. This prevents the liner from moving downwards and the head prevents the liner from moving upwards.

    It requires complete engine dismantling to retrofit the liners, so it isn't something you would do unless you had to pull the engine out and rebuild it anyway.

  3. #3
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    You can see the flange here:

    Scott

  4. #4
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    Thanks guys that was what I thought, and you have cleared it up completely.

    Definitely only when the engine gets rebuilt

  5. #5
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    Sorry to hijack the thread ...but it is relevant: ...I thought I read a reference "somewhere" that the blocks of later 4.0 /4.6 engines had been either cast or machined with a step in the bottom of the bore with the liner inserted from the top such that it sat on the step... is this true and if so is there any info as to which VIN signalled the changeover?

    Second question: how do the engine builders actually heat the block evenly to remove/replace the liners...just wondering... do they heat it in oil, use an oven...?

  6. #6
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    I think it's in the Des Hammill book, but at any rate the step didn't make any difference. The liners were apparently not always pressed down to the step so they can come loose anyway. Top hatting has become the only proven guarantee that liners won't move, and there's no other fix that's easier . . . or cheaper. Which means I'll have both my V8s top-hatted by about the middle of this century!
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

  7. #7
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Oh, I forgot your second question.

    It would seem (pardon the vagueness but I haven't actually talked to one of these joints) that the old liners are machined out, then the block is machined for the top hats, and then the block is heated (I'm guessing in an oven) and the liners are pressed in. I read somewhere on here that a Perth company was pressing the liners into a cold block, which just sounds lazy to me. The idea of heating up the block is so it can cool and contract onto the liners.
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

  8. #8
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    [QUOTE=Hoges;1610994]Sorry to hijack the thread ...but it is relevant: ...QUOTE]

    No hijack at all

    Another question: what causes them to slip? I assume overheating would be one of or the most common cause - steel and aluminium expand at different temperature and speeds. What sort of temperatures are we talking?

    If one does slip what is the potential damage?

  9. #9
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    In engines bigger than the 3.5, there's less aluminium between the liner and coolant passage and overheating can cause a crack and coolant can start escaping up past the liner and into the combustion chamber. It seems that later Range Rovers ran much hotter for emissions reasons, so a constant temperature of over about 95c will do it.

    Once a liner slips, the piston will move it up and down a tiny bit and this causes a ticking noise. Often it happens while the engine is cold and then stops once the block warms up. But then the coolant heats up, it's under pressure, and if there's a crack behind the liner it will get through. Then you'll find the offending cylinder will have a lovely steam-cleaned spark plug and piston top.

    With all this coolant escaping, often the head gasket is blamed. This is where it can get confusing!
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

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