For Defender or Disco?
If it's a Disco, how do you propose lowering the head onto the studs? You will probably need to do the cable tie trick with the studs for the rear as per usual and install the studs once the head is sitting on the block.
Hi an update on my quest for stud kit for the head on my 300 tdi, I have received kit from ARP America, hope to install next week, I will post note when all working again.
I will try to attach invoice if anyone wants part numbers, total cost was $458.00
regards to all
For Defender or Disco?
If it's a Disco, how do you propose lowering the head onto the studs? You will probably need to do the cable tie trick with the studs for the rear as per usual and install the studs once the head is sitting on the block.
There's no issue in fitting the studs to the block post head placement. They should only be finger tight, as a guide I use an allen key with one finger pressure, as soon as it starts to press hard against the bone time to stop.
Can't read it unfortunately.
Hi yep it's no prob's same as putting in bolts, but i drilled 2 hole's in panel above rear 2 bolts, was easy, will use blanking grommets , hope to have running soon cheers from
G2
Call me crazy - is this looking for a solution to a problem that doesnt exist?
You can easily up-torque standard 300 bolts if you intend running higher boost for example.
I imagine the gasket is still gonna blow between 2 and 3 eventually, no matter how many kazillion Newton Feet you apply to your studs... nature of the beast
The difference in price is 3 or 4 gaskets over standard studs.
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Studs are not about more torque but rather eliminating silly single use TTY bolts and reducing the effects of stretch in "standard" reusable bolts. I've written in other posts about testing on both toyota and LR TTY bolts and the variance in torque, both immediate and rested values and the amount and location of stretch in individual bolts.
Suffice it to say that the TTY bolts are not the most consistent things when it comes to an application that relies on consistency.
The price difference is also a set of studs per change, if you do it right. Next time measure the difference in length of a new bolts and used one, plus the shape and distortion of the thread and the diameter along it's length and where it's necked down due to stretch.
I've run up to 15:1 comp on ARP's with 108 RON fuel (N/A) and not moved them outside their allowable range. 9:1 on TTY's and they stretch all over the place.
thats alot of money compared to LR bolts. I believe that the 300tdi head bolts are NOT TTY.
Hey I am also looking at doing ARP heads studs an im in need of the part numbers or the invoice pleas if you can
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