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Thread: Repairing accelerator cable

  1. 26th February 2012, 01:33 PM #1
    Ratel10mm
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    Repairing accelerator cable

    Hi All

    My accelerator cable broke (SIII Diesel). I've got a universal cable kit to hand, and my question is:
    What solder is correct for fixing the cable to the clamps/nipples/whatever they're called on the ends please? Does it need to be particularly high tensile strength, or will 15% silver do?

    Thanks a lot
    Matt
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  2. 26th February 2012, 02:58 PM #2
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    Blknight.aus
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    they're usually crimped.
    Dave

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  3. 26th February 2012, 03:33 PM #3
    Ratel10mm
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    Drat. That means I probably won't be able to re-use the existing cable end fittings then.
    Better see if I can get to a bike shop & see what they have I guess.
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  4. 26th February 2012, 04:12 PM #4
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    Throttle cable wire is probably cold drawn wire for strength, heating is softens the wire. Twin screw electrical joiners can hold together two bits of wire. Most bike shop stuff uses pre-made cable with one end factory fitted and the other fastened with a screw clamp. I would suggest finding a cable repairer to advise on crimped fittings, eg Flexdrive.

    I have made my own crimp tools for flexible cable, I cut two vee blocks to use in a press, then drilled mild steel rod to the exact OD of the wire, and applied lotsa force. Trial and error made a reliable clutch cable replacement for me.
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  5. 27th February 2012, 12:44 AM #5
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    I have used ordinary 60/40 rosin cored solder with success before, if the cable goes through the fitting, push it right through, flare it out a bit, pull it back into the fitting leaving a bit of the flared out bit showing and apply a soldering iron to the underneath and apply the solder from the top, never had a fitting come off, the heat from the soldering iron shouldn't affect the wire strength, good luck, Regards Frank.
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  6. 27th February 2012, 06:53 AM #6
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    I second Tank. Did the same thing to my S1 disco Tdi and no problems 18 months later. Still carrying a new cable in the car though??
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  7. 27th February 2012, 08:26 AM #7
    Dougal
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    I'm using bike gear cables.
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  8. 2nd March 2012, 04:04 PM #8
    Ratel10mm
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    Thanks for all the good ideas everyone.

    Here's a progress report:

    I applied heat to the old ends. No go, so must be crimped.
    So, I thought to myself - why not drill out the cable & solder in the new?
    The first one went well. Unfortunately the second didn't - the bit skewed & came out the side of the fitting:


    So, on to plan B.

    I've used a marine & structural rigging company called Blue Wave, based in Reedy Creek for a couple of things over the years. They're extremely helpful, generally cheaper than the big DIY stores for rigging parts, and theirs have a SWL stated in the catalogue (which is something that really annoys me about the DIY store stuff - it has no SWL info at all!).
    So, noting that the above fittings are basically the same as the sort used for balustrading (sp?) & on boats I spoke to the guys at Blue Wave.
    Result; a length of 316 cable with a fitting crimped to the end & another loose. Came home, measured up, took it back & had the other end crimped on. For a grand total of $15.00. Pretty good I think. Being 316, the new cable will probably outlast Beast!
    Ian had given me a universal cable kit he had spare. The cable was too small for Blue Wave's crimps (they need a minimum of 2.5mm) but the sheath worked a treat.

    Shown with the old sheath.

    Now, disaster! Even though I'd just read the relevant part of the Green Bible, in my rush I hadn't made sure the hand throttle was at the minimum!!!!! AAAARRRGGGHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!

    So, the cable is about 1.5" too long at minimum throttle.

    Well, am I right in thinking that I can adjust the accelerator lever on the cross shaft upwards to take up the slack?

    I'm betting that there's enough adjustment to take out the slack & still leave enough travel for the accelerator. Otherwise it's cut a fitting off & back to Blue Wave to have another crimped on.

    I'm going to keep a length of cable & some 'chocolate block' electrical connectors in the spares kit to use Bee Utey's idea if ever needed.
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