TD5 Delayed Acceleration at low engine speeds

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2) Pulling away at a roundabout or junction, there is about a 2 second delay before anything happens, then all hell breaks lose when rpm gets above 2000. This delay is reduced if I turn off the A/C system.

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I found this problem also, connecting the hawkeye i found i get a fault
"3016 inlet air temperature high" when this happens
Ive read this can be caused from to much boost,
Ive backed the boost back down, but when the cruise control cause the engine to rev it jugs off, high revs it logs again.
I think my MAP inlet sensor is shot.
Ive cleaned a few times, but everytime i have delayed acceleration i find this fault logged.
Im looking at buying a new MAP sensor....

Bosch 0281002205

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Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

gees,, mine must be stuffed then,,:o

with mutli set on 20K range

pins 1-2, a reading of 26
pins 1-3, 1.7(still on 20K)
pins 2-3, no reading, ie, meter stayed at 1

but then I could get no reading from pins 1-3,,
all these were done with the lead unclipped.

cant be right,, car wouldnt run at all,,:confused:

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Yep, yours is completely ****ed. The fact that it's attached to a boat anchor v8 is the main problem...

Most likely a failed MAF sensor. I had the same issue with my TD5 Auto - replaced the sensor with a new one and the problem went away.
Disconnect the sensor and see if the performance is any different.

Hi Folks,

My resistance at the second and third reading is 24M and first is same as all here. My nanocom however is reporting all zero's at gr/h no matter what throttle and i now have the air flow circuit intermit fault coming up. If i clear fault it is back straight away so not so intermit eh!

Yes I,ve cleaned maf with air pressure only as looks good with no debris, wires look fine but will check again tomorrow is to check wires, but are you folk telling me to buy a new one if the wires are sound. I have checked, aap and map so all good there.

I.e. Is Nothing else to check and is the nanocom telling me its stuffed. Would i be correct here with giving up and buying new, cheers,

Well on advice here, just went to clean more again the two strip elements and found one element partially missing after placing said reading glasses on. I suspect Terry the Turbo had dealt with the piece so all clean as one would say.

So you can have resistance values saying perhaps in normal range but the unit is still dead as by nanocom standards. Just ordered a new VDO MAF delivered for $133.

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Originally Posted by mturri

Resistivity values taken from MAF sensors
New OEM MAF:
Pins 1-2 = 16.8 kohm
Pins 1-3 = ~34 Mohm
Pins 2-3 = ~34 Mohm

Used dodgy MAFs (due being replaced):
Pins 1-2 = 16.8 kohm
Pins 1-3 = 12.28 Mohm
Pins 2-3 = 12.33 Mohm

Pins 1-2 = 16.8 kohm
Pins 1-3 = 19.38 Mohm
Pins 2-3 = 19.34 Mohm

Known dead MAF:
Pins 1-2 = 16.8 kohm
Pins 1-3 = 6.23 Mohm
Pins 2-3 = 6.25 Mohm

From the above it could be concluded that all MAFs, either good or bad, have the same conductivity between pins 1-2 & conductivity between pins 1-3 and 2-3 appears to decrease as the MAF deteriorates.

HTH

Rgds
Matt

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I have just bought a new SIEMENS Maf and I get:
pins 1-2 16.8kohm
pins 1-3 10.45Mohm
pins 2-3 9.85Mohm

Old Maf:
pins 1-2 16.8k
pins 1-3 9.45M
pins 2-3 9.45M

I had sluggish acceleration issues. I've not taken it for a drive with the new MAF as I am working on an interior water leak/ floor rust issue.

The new MAF values seem well out of line with others I have found on the net. I don't unfortunately have the ability to get live data with the engine running.

Well, I went for a drive with the new MAF and new air filter fitted. No change to driving ?haracteristics. There is still a massive gulf of emptiness when trying to accelerate from standstill and low rpm.

I found a tip posted by a TD5 tuning company that said 2 volts at the MAF centre pin at idle equates to 60kg/hr which is "perfection". I get just under 2.1v so I am assuming my new MAF is good.

Before spending on a maf check the cables going to it.
ie- over the aircon, cut back insulation on loom and clean with wd40...
They get cooked insulation on wires, then short= fault then limp....
Check output on the ecu red plug, at idle, while moving the loom... Before stripping looms open 😉
Mapping guys over here use a 3.3v max, voltage regulator, in the return wire from maf to ecu... This sometimes (if not an ultra low dropout one) can put in limp mode on idle. This produces grey smoke and misfires (nanocom reading of 4.2!!) then when revved up the signal comes on to right levels (50-60 idle).
Just saying if people have this issue and there's is mapped 😃

I had something similar to this when i bought my car. I replaced the MAF with no change and eventually after a few different mechanics. They found that my turbo hoses had delaminated. That was creating my obstruction and once they were replaced it was like a whole new car.

Read this old thread from the beginning, i only want to tell you all to not rely on resistance readings when it comes to MAF(except across pins 1-2 where it's the electronic circuit's resistance and should be the same) the other readings can be different from one case to another even with new genuine sensors cos the MAF is extremely temperature dependent so relevant is only if the readings were taken at the same ambient temperature... that's all