This is where I am at now, waiting for fuel pump and fuel pressure test kit to keep eliminating until I get to the problem/fixQuote:
Originally Posted by Slunnie
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This is where I am at now, waiting for fuel pump and fuel pressure test kit to keep eliminating until I get to the problem/fixQuote:
Originally Posted by Slunnie
If you post the whole log, it'll be much easier to diagnose.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnp38
Cheers
James
Attachment 169938
Not sure how to attach
Edit to say I hope it works, coz it looks like it attached, I will let you guys open it up in your preferred viewer, from 1.10 is when I went to take off with foot down.
It all looks ok to me as far as the inputs go other than the vehicle actually not shooting forward.
And no fuel pressure sensor in the design, even just to bring up the engine light and leave an error code, seems to be an oversight.
Ta...I'll have a lookQuote:
Originally Posted by johnp38
Edit: pm sent...
So, today came finally and so did the new fuel pump and fuel pressure kit.
As I am building up a stock of spares for that middle of nowhere trip I probably won't ever do, I promptly swapped out the existing pump for the new one.
Lucky me the job had been done before and the carpet was sliced down either side about 1 inch under the plastic trim, so followed the youtube clip and bob's ya uncle and mable's ya aunty
Took car for a spin around the block and no improvement, however the new pump purrs while the old one makes 'noise' but still does the job.
So put the fuel pressure gauge in place of the fuel temp sender and have 4.2 Bar ignition on but not running and 4.6 Bar engine running.
Fuel pressure goes to 0 as soon as car switched off. Same happens when doing the air purge, up steady at 4.2 Bar when pump running, back to 0, then back up and steady at 4.2 again every time the pump runs.
Now that I have Mr Nanocom I also swapped out the MAP sensor for the 'dodgy' one that does make it launch off the line like a normal car but then dies. So quite handy when you can see what the ECM sees, my dodgy MAP is at 210 at idle ( the IAT side of the cct looks pretty normal though) as if the turbo was spooled up, put foot down and instant response like it is a real car but the MAP hits 230 or so and then suddenly drops to 100 and I can only bum along at 20-30 k around the block. As soon as I pull up it goes back up to 200-210 and I can get off the line without the delay and ECM shuts down again to 100 as I have reached 20 klicks and I can feather it up to 30.
I am on a steep learning curve with this motor so lots of guesses but I think the dodgy MAP is fuelling the car more at idle and as I tromp it the ECM is saying whoa boy too much boost and switching to limp home mode 100 kpa till I drop back the revs to idle and take off again.
So now that I have changed heaps of things and narrowing down by process of elimination I really want to try a bog stock unchipped MSB unit just to eliminate the TRS 'performance' tuning from the list. I say this because (guessing as above) the dodgy MAP must be causing the ECM to do something different with the fuel curve to be making a difference off the line. I did go to buy what I was assured was a stock MSB but when I got there it was another TRS job. It had TRS Performance Tune all over it and I didn't get much of a response pointing out the blindingly obvious and referring to our phone chat. The lid had been 'tortured' off (well it actually looked like it was still in pain) and siliconed back on. I bought it anyway as a spare and also figuring I could get it 'chipped' with a stock tune as it was a good price.
So who has an eprom programmer, a spare AT29C1024 chip and a factory stock tune with EGR delete for 10P EU2 disco automatic, and how much pretty please?
I had the exact same issues as the OP
Solved by setting the injector clearances and also by aligning cam to crank timing.
Both the above were out, injector clearances gave back the low end power and cam timing fixed the throttle response spot on.
