Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 23

Thread: 300 Tdi head replacement questions

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Mandurah WA
    Posts
    659
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Back to the initial cause of the overheating.I had the same problem of a blown heater hose [split behind the head]but luckily the low level coolant alarm picked it up before any overheating occurred.Moral.....fit an alarm asap!

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    16
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi guys,

    I was unsuccessful in getting a stud fit where the bolt wouldn't. Either the head or the timing casing needs to come off. So I will have to get another head gasket and make another trip. Got lots of other stuff done so it wasn't all bad.
    I will definitely be getting a low coolant alarm.
    Is this thermostat housing bolt a problem for all 300 tdi engines? I'm surprised I haven't read about it before. my engine is a 18L xxxxxxx engine which according to my research is a disco EDC manual engine. To the best of my knowledge my engine doesn't have EDC.

    Regards

    Jarrod

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Somewhere else, QLD
    Posts
    1,863
    Total Downloaded
    0
    About the bottom bolts for the thermostat housing: There is a chance that you or the PO used the wrong (longer) bolts - I vividly recall that I have replaced that gasket in situ- it was PITA and I had to cut up and modify a spanner to do it - but it was do able. ( Just checking that you are installing the bolts first and then sliding the housing down on them..)

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    wagga wagga
    Posts
    25
    Total Downloaded
    0
    it is very doable without pulling the head or timing case, thats why the lower 2 holes on the housing are slotted.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    under a rock, next to a tree, at Broadmarsh
    Posts
    6,738
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Langy has it

    Quote Originally Posted by langy View Post
    About the bottom bolts for the thermostat housing: There is a chance that you or the PO used the wrong (longer) bolts - I vividly recall that I have replaced that gasket in situ- it was PITA and I had to cut up and modify a spanner to do it - but it was do able. ( Just checking that you are installing the bolts first and then sliding the housing down on them..)
    Do as Langy has said.

    I have been caught the same way and worked around the problem and I ended up doing exactly what Langy has posted there, never a a problem with it since.
    Get a, soup-a-sheep 13 mm open ender / ring, cut the end out of the ring end just enough gap to force the gap across the shank of the bolt and away you go.
    Then repeat after me, for each movement of the spanner, "I will in the future put this on before installing the head".
    .

  6. #16
    Judo's Avatar
    Judo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Parkdale, Melbourne
    Posts
    2,919
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Also, don't think it was mentioned earlier in the thread... I believe you will need to do the valve clearances after fitting the head. Take some feeler gauges with you.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    16
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi guys,

    The problem is not doing the bolts up but getting the lower left into the head without the thermostat housing in place. I know thermostat housing has slotted holes and is slipped over the bottom bolts and the done up. According to microcat the bolts I have are the correct type and length. M8 x 25mm with a flanged head. 3 are fine but the lower left is hitting on the casting of the timing case. I cut down a bolt so that it just cleared the casing but it only leaves about 4 turns in the head which is not enough.

    I have photos to show this but can't (or don't know how) to upload them from an iPad. I can email them if anyone is interested otherwise it will have to wait until I get home.

    Regards

    Jarrod

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    under a rock, next to a tree, at Broadmarsh
    Posts
    6,738
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Don't know how

    And I don't know how to post incognito !

    Grind a little bit off where the bolt does up, a bit = about two threads worth.

    Disclaimer: I didn't post this ! honest

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Somewhere else, QLD
    Posts
    1,863
    Total Downloaded
    0
    It's not the timing case - it's the ancillary bracket, in particular the back of the housing for the tensioner. Unless there is something weird, you could grind a little bit off that webbing to fit the bolt in.



    Take the tensioner off and the temperature sensor out so you have room to move about.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    16
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi Langy,

    There is a bulge in the casting behind the tensioner shaft. This is where it is hitting. You can just make it out in your photo. It will be clearer whe I get my photo up as there is nothing in the way. I'd have to grind a air bit away to get it to clear

    Thanks

    Jarrod

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!