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Thread: Land Rover Series 3 100"

  1. 21st October 2012, 12:38 AM #81
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    Series3 GT
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    The reason we cut the outrigger is because I bought a set of series 3 ones instead of 110 outriggers. At the moment I'm having trouble with the engineer, everyone I ask says to ask somewhere else until I found a bloke who actually helped me out. He said that he could weld it up himself and take it to another company that won't deal with the public but he said the problem is the body number and chassis number won't match but I didn't think they needed to. At the moment I'm going to apply for a modifiers permit. If it all goes wrong I'll drop the V8 and lt95 into either my old IIA or the Series 3 chassis. You've gotta love the rumble and grunt of a V8.
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  2. 21st October 2012, 09:52 AM #82
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    My body number and chassis number don't match.
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  3. 21st October 2012, 08:10 PM #83
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    Ok, I didn't think the body and chassis numbers needed to match because you register the chassis number. I'm going to register it as a re-bodied Range Rover.
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  4. 21st October 2012, 09:59 PM #84
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    Keep going mate.. You're doing better than most already. Nice to see a doer doing it instead of knockers.

    Cheers

    I
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  5. 22nd October 2012, 11:19 AM #85
    Davo
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    That's right - you're actually doing it, so keep doing it until it's done!

    Modification information here is ridiculously complicated in the sense that nobody actually knows what they're talking about, so they make it up or send you along to the next bozo. We have friends who brought out their VW from England and were told that it had to be in original spec to be registered, which meant taking out some seatbelts! So they gave up, and the car is in storage.

    So keep hacking away.
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.
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  6. 22nd October 2012, 10:54 PM #86
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    I'm not planning on stopping now I really want it to work. My only big challenge is the road and transport department but I think there's a way of doing it. For the front of tray outrigger we're still not sure what path we should take, whether we modify the outriggers I've bought or make up the outrigger that Mark Evans used in 4x4 is Born,which was a piece of 50mmx1500mm box section and weld on the tabs. Personally I think the latter would be the best choice. I told Mark Evans what I was doing and he gave me his best so I hope it works.
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  7. 23rd October 2012, 10:24 PM #87
    Davo
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    Excellent. Keep us informed!
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.
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  8. 24th October 2012, 10:55 PM #88
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    I'm wondering what brake set up you've used mick. I was thinking of getting a SIII brake booster and running the dual line circuit to suit the Rangie discs. I've heard that a really early commodre brake booster on the pedal box just wondering what to do.
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  9. 24th October 2012, 11:27 PM #89
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    I didn't build it myself. As far as I am aware, mine is Series III Stage 1 booster and master cylinder. It is a single circuit. I did have trouble with a clown who wouldn't fix an issue with a calliper seizing on because he thought it should be dual circuit.
    I do believe a dual circuit system is better but mine is done and seems to work well.
    With yours being a "re-bodied Range Rover", Iwould have thought you'd be trying to use the Range Rover braking system. Commodore booster, best discuss with the engineer.
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  10. 25th October 2012, 07:50 AM #90
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    When I built mine in the 80's there was no internet, and not even any LRO magazine so it was just suck it and see.

    Which is how I found a Commodore Booster & M/C fits, It was PBR brand & now remember from a V8 VB or VC Commodore on a 6 Cylinder Pedal box.

    http://goingbush.com/landy/902.jpg

    I think I had to elongate the holes on the pedal box to make the booster fit.

    You'd probably find a M/C now with a fluid reservoir that sits level. (possibly Holden VT master Cylinder)

    Just take a template of the pedal box bolt pattern to the wreckers and try it on firewalls till you find a match.

    If you have a Master cylinder that came from a Rear drum brake car just remove the residual check valve and you will have a 4 wheel disc brake master cylinder. (the valve/ fitting that the rear hydraulic line screws into on the MC)

    But if I were doing it now the obvious & most elegant solution would be to use a Defender pedal box/ booster & m/cylinder.
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