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Thread: Replacing Brake Rotors - any tips/tricks?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Do you have a copper hammer coz sometimes, you have to beat crap out of the old rotors to get them off the hubs...

    M

  2. #12
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    Jan 1970
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    NSW far north coast
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdd1098 View Post
    You should never use old pads on new rotors, (they will introduce an uneven wear pattern in the new surface) the hiss is the gases disapating through the holes and slots, so your fancy rotors are doing their job
    Another point is if you drive in mud a lot, slotty drilly rotors are bad as they can trap grit and chew up your pads real quick
    Dave

    I strongly disagree, it is preferable to use old pads with new rotors for several reasons.

    1. New cast iron is 'green' and needs a few good heat cycles to work out internal stresses and condition the face.
    It's also quite porous.

    2. New pads contain the resins and binders from manufacture, these need to be burned out before optimum performance is reached.

    If using brand new discs, these will be deposited onto and into the rotor and may lead to glazing.

    For pads to work properly some material transfer takes place onto the rotor face, this can be hard to achieve and can take many thousands of km if the surface is clogged with the binders from new pads.

    I realise it's impossible in some situations to not have a new/new setup, eg. when buying a new car, but I've never had uneven rotor wear when using new discs/old pads.

  3. #13
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    the bendix 4WD pads have sandpaper type stuff on the surface to enable very quick bed in and cleaning of teh discs.
    Regards Philip A

  4. #14
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    Once fitted go to a lonely road and get the old girl up to 100 and then brake as hard as you can,do that a few times and you'll never have glazing. Pat

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAT303 View Post
    Once fitted go to a lonely road and get the old girl up to 100 and then brake as hard as you can,do that a few times and you'll never have glazing. Pat
    Never stop totally between big applications and after the last green fade burnout, you don't stop and keep driving for a good 10-20 minutes without any brake application whatsoever to get the discs and pads back to ambient temp, then they are good to go.

    As Philip mentioned, Bendix use a titanium oxide strip to help get rid of the old pad material and get the new pads bedded more quickly.

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