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Thread: 3.9 complete rebuild any tips, tricks, things to look out for?

  1. #1
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    3.9 complete rebuild any tips, tricks, things to look out for?

    Hey guys I've got a bit of spare time coming up and i'd like to learn how to rebuild a motor with the thought of eventually putting it into my 3.5 88RRC.

    so i guess my main concern is ease of transfer to that car hence why im not thinking bout a 4.6?? its gonna be a learning curve for me and i will most likely stuff it up (pretty positive already!!!) but you only live once and i will be better for the experience.

    can any of you land rover Jedi's out there give me any tips, tricks, or parts to look out for or avoid from your experiences.

    cheers guys

  2. #2
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    Don't bother re-boring a Rover V8. I learnt the hard way that that they need to be re-sleeved with top-hat liners, otherwise the liners come loose.

    I also learnt the hard way that the new camshaft needs to be run-in at 2500rpm for at least 20 minutes, so that the lobes don't wear off

    Cheers Charlie

  3. #3
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    Quick hint: don't DIY a 3.9. Buy a top-hat linered reco short motor (3.9, 4.6, whatever floats your boat) from a reputable engine shop, then possibly it will last. 2 out of 3 3.9 engines that have come to me for repairs have had cracked blocks.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    ...... 2 out of 3 3.9 engines that have come to me for repairs have had cracked blocks.
    Overheating ? or inherently fragile design ?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by superquag View Post
    Overheating ? or inherently fragile design ?
    Reached their fatigue failure limit, poor design means that very little overheating is needed to set off the cracking. Around 250-300K it's a lucky dip to get a crack free one even if well maintained.

  6. #6
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    are the 4.4's a more reliable option?

  7. #7
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Well, get a top-hatted block and then build it up. Anything other than the 3.5 V8s just seem to have that much less material around the liners that many wind up cracking.

    Other than that, engine rebuilds tend to be rather straightforward. The heads go off to be at least serviced. The crank goes off to be checked and at least polished if not reground. The timing cover may need to be reconditioned since they corrode behind the water pump. You get to spend lots of time at machine shops asking them to do things.

    If you get the block top-hatted, then you'd get new pistons as well, which would need to be fitted onto the conrods for you. You would then spend a lot of time checking the piston ring gaps in the bores, assembling, and then putting the pistons in.

    Nothing is really that hard, just tedious and picky. You don't take short cuts or you pay for it later on.

    It is quite nice when the thing is finally fired up and actually works, and even better when it's got several thousand k's on it and you know that you put it together. And you'll know what was done on the motor. I've got one here in bits, and it would appear that the big company over East who put the engine together years ago didn't worry about the marked crankshaft, or the odd piston ring that scratched a liner and ruined it.

    I'm just about to do up an engine and I'm looking forward to getting the whole thing just right.
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

  8. #8
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    you doing up a 3.9 davo?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vanderz View Post
    are the 4.4's a more reliable option?
    Not really, and there are a number of fitting issues too, they aren't a drop-in fit. Crankshaft rear end, block width, oil passages, emissions specs, all make it difficult.

  10. #10
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    Consider how badly you want to do it. I found myself with the Disco parked in the drive earlier this year, crippled with a chopped out spark plug hole and the plug still stuck.

    It was only last week that I collected the block, heads and crank from the machinist having had flanged liners put in and bored to match new 9.35:1 pistons, new cam bearings fitted, heads reconditioned (inc 5 new valves) and the crank machined 0.010". All that and the new bits to go have cost painfully close to $4K. Yes it will be absolutely peachy once I have a new, freshly rebuilt engine that's better than new with the higher comp pistons, but it had bloody well want to be. $4K constitutes a decent chunk of the diesel 110 I'd like to own in a few years.

    This morning I'm collating torque figures things to double check in a checklist since I'm having to do the work in the evenings. Nothing hard, but as pointed out it's fernicketty fiddly work.

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