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Marshall Engineering Assembly Tips for trailers
Find correct position for center hanger. The general rule of thumb is 1" every 2' (25mm every 600mm) behind center of trailer frame (not including drawbar length). Trailers with more weight to rear will require axle further to rear (e.g. boat trailers/horse floats). When welding hangers to frame, weld along hanger with frame, not across. (welding along frame is stronger)
The axle is currently dead centre and on a recent empty (and the first time since purchasing it 2nd hand )tow of 900klms the trailer was constantly rocking over the pivot point causing the hayman reese tongue to constantly knock by its rocking around pivoting in its socket . Ball weight is practically 0 .
Bolt a spare wheel to the drawbar , and possibly shift the single axle back about 3-4 inch. Just weld on a new set of spring hangers and extend/shift the mudguards backwards. My single axle high fronted stock trailer is virtually silent when towing. It too has shock absorbers.Quote:
Originally Posted by theg
Unless the noise annoys you, I wouldn't worry about the ball weight (except when taking the trailer off.) I always run relatively low ball weights when I can, even on heavy trailers because it improves the handling of the car and trailer. For a rough indication of ball weight on heavy trailers, just check how much the hub to guard measurement or the ball height drops as you load up the trailer.Quote:
Originally Posted by theg
The generally accepted rule is that you should have somewhere between 5 to 10% of total weight as your ball weight, preferably closer to 10%.
Dave.
Why non-load-sharing suspension?
Much cheaper and simpler?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougal
I have a car trailer aswell with dual axles though and its not a load sharing assembly . I have a height adjustable tow bar tongue and I set the ball height to have the trailer chassis level front to back . Travels brilliantly !Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougal
I dont see the need for load sharing when setting up the trailer ( running level ) like this .
Hi all
Just to clarify axle location
Yes there is a formula , It is half inch back from centre for each foot of length ( not including drawbar )
If there is a permanent tool box fitted , the tool box should be included in the length of frame : ie you have a 6ft trailer with a 2ft tool bax , that will make total frame length of 8ft , so the axle centre would be 8xhalf inch = 4inches back from centre
A loaded trailer should also have ball weight of 8 to 10%
The only time that this wont take effect is in the case of dedicated load requirements such as a horse float or fifth wheel goose neck , goose neck has a different formula again !
Ps I am a qualified Vehicle body builder , specialising in trailer , bus and truck
Current employment is Trade teacher in trailer manufacturing
And no it's not boiler making , thats civil construction not automotive!
Talk about thread archaeology! Good timing though. I was just looking for how one goes about gaining Vicroads approval for a home built trailer. Perhaps you would know.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jodsta069