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Thread: How loose should a Salisbury be?

  1. 28th May 2012, 05:51 PM #1
    blue_mini's Avatar
    blue_mini
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    How loose should a Salisbury be?

    In my defender, 92 200tdi ute, I seem to have a lot of play in the rear diff. With the rear jacked up I can spin it 10-15 degrees before it locks and the diff stops it.
    When driving it makes a big clunk pulling away then under power it is silent. If I back off, to slow down or change gears it makes a sort of rolling clunk noise then is silent again. If I apply power then it makes the same noise then is silent.
    I got the cover off today and the crown wheel and pinion seem fine, but the gears in the diff have play in between them. Maybe 5mm at most and seems to translate through to the wheel slop.
    I couldn't pull the driveshafts out, either they've been twisted in situ or the drive flanges are stuck as well. Does anyone have any hints for getting them out?
    Any advice would be appreciated.
    Cheers, Joe
    I also have a range rover rear diff I can put in as a stop gap while the Salisbury is getting fixed.
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  2. 28th May 2012, 06:17 PM #2
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    put the drive flange on backwards, shim it up tight with the circlip in place, tap the circlip home attache a 3 leg slide puller/hammer to the flange and have at it.
    Dave

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  3. 28th May 2012, 06:25 PM #3
    85 county
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    Clunk on and a clunk off.


    I would be thinking the big ball A frame thingy that’s up behind the dangly thing if its a county or rangey if not you don’t get the dangly bits but still have the ball.

    If it is a county and you have the dangly bits the ball is different ( its important)
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  4. 28th May 2012, 06:34 PM #4
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    Thanks, I'll try that method to get rid of the driveshafts and see how I go.

    And I've recently replaced the ball joint with an adjustable one. Might try cranking that up tighter.
    Though left foot braking does the reduce the clunk. I figured it was the diff due to the brakes holding the diff in the 'drive' position instead of slopping back to the 'driven' position. Am I onto something here or over thinking it?
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  5. 28th May 2012, 08:28 PM #5
    85 county
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    Quote Originally Posted by blue_mini View Post
    Thanks, I'll try that method to get rid of the driveshafts and see how I go.

    And I've recently replaced the ball joint with an adjustable one. Might try cranking that up tighter.
    Though left foot braking does the reduce the clunk. I figured it was the diff due to the brakes holding the diff in the 'drive' position instead of slopping back to the 'driven' position. Am I onto something here or over thinking it?
    ok here is trick. rolling slowly on brakes as if to stop, clutch in.

    nip the hand brake up a bit, if you get a clunk clunk thing happening, may pay to check endfloat in TF case
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  6. 28th May 2012, 08:37 PM #6
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    The clunk is exacerbated by a dragging handbrake (does not affect how much actual play there is, just the effects of it).

    John
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  7. 29th May 2012, 09:53 PM #7
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    A bit of an update on this.

    Got the rear propshaft off and checked that, by hand theres no play in the unis and a very small amount in the spline.
    Had a fight with the drive flanges and eventually got them both off, and theres no play between the flange and shaft, forgot to check between the diff and the shaft. The splines look straight but seem to have a very small chamfered edge on the side of what i assume is the leading edge of the spline.
    The diff seemed to spin without any play with the cover off and the crownwheel and pinion mesh nicely.
    I then put the drive flanges and oil seals back on and went for a test drive. Halfway through the test drive i realised i hadn't locked the centre diff so kept going and the rumbling noise when letting off the throttle is gone, but if i let the throttle off quickly it clunks once and then decelerates. I did the handbrake test and there was one clunk and it slowed down normally.
    I took it to work then, still with the cdl in open, and it went fine, the clunks ive said before but nothing else.
    On the way home it started making some metal on metal grinding noises, like something getting ground by teeth and the centre diff lock became open again, so i flicked it to lock and drove away and havent had a problem.

    I think the next plan is to rip the transfer out and rebuild that then put it back and see if it was the diff, or does anyone have solutions otherwise?
    Cheers,
    Joe
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