Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 18

Thread: Grrr disco1 starter removal

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    101
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Grrr disco1 starter removal

    Hey guys, been out for hours now trying to remove starter Motor from my 3.9 disco. The bottom bolt was tight but not too bad. The top one (un-accessible) I've had everywhere from 1 extension to 6 extensions. I've even managed to get my impact driver up in there and still no love, is there a trick of the trade to get the top bolt out?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Goolwa SA - but top ender forever
    Posts
    2,515
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Take said extension bars come in from the top put them at the back of the motor and belt with a big hammer. In the end smashing it off was the only way I could get mine off

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    101
    Total Downloaded
    0
    So actually trying to smash the rear of the bolt? To loosen grit or something?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Goolwa SA - but top ender forever
    Posts
    2,515
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Nar I had to break the housing and put another starter in. Someone prior to me had rounded the Allen heads out and no matter what I tried I just couldn't move the top one. I was so frustrated a match and a liberal amount of petrol was looking good. JC talked me out of burning it to the ground but he was right that breaking it off was the only way to get it out.

    Put the xtension bars at the furthest point from the bolts, and a big hammer IF you really can't get it off; seems rough and I guess it is but I did get it off and another starter isn't that much in the scheme of things

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney, you know. The olympic one.
    Posts
    4,853
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I actually bought a 36" extension for this with its own uni joint. Adapted a spring to the uni and fitted the hex socket fitting and kinked the spring to hold it at the right angle to go straight in. Welded the socket to the uni so it couldn't be altered again. Plus I have a long extension to use. Also helpful for top bell housing bolts on most everything.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Gold Coast Queensland Australia
    Posts
    6,469
    Total Downloaded
    0
    yep, that one can be hard.
    make sure that you have cleaned out the hex hole so the allen head socket can go right in,
    i then generally add all my extensions 3/8 drive, until i can get the ratchet or bar onto it in front of the diff.
    Safe Travels
    harry

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Crafers West South Australia
    Posts
    11,732
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Oh and once you're done, if you replace the allen bolts with regular hex bolts you can get at them with an ordinary short ring/OE spanner.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Forty minutes closer to the hills in a house the bank is kind enough to let me live in
    Posts
    1,532
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I managed to get mine out just fine... once the engine was on my work stand in the garage. Those allen bolts are one of the little jokes played on us by Rover engineers. Bet they're still sniggering. Mine took MAP gas heating and impact driver persuasion.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    101
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by MacMan
    I managed to get mine out just fine... once the engine was on my work stand in the garage. Those allen bolts are one of the little jokes played on us by Rover engineers. Bet they're still sniggering. Mine took MAP gas heating and impact driver persuasion.
    It's doing my head in. I've tried everything. Tomorrow I'll try the match and fuel idea

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Ballarat, Victoria
    Posts
    766
    Total Downloaded
    0
    i can't remember what i did with mine to get them out, a pair of vice grips come to mind, the bolts were almost rounded out though, when i replaced them with new bolts, i made sure i put some copper anti seize on the threads, and sure enough about 2 years later they came out way easier

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!