Thread: D2, LT230SE transfer box remove/fit hints please.

Hi Kyle,

Sorry to hear your having a few issues. I can't answer many of your questions but as I was recently looking at pulling mine out I found a few things. Many think it's easier to pull the whole gearbox/transfer out in one piece. There are also many that have just dropped the transfer alone without issue so there is no sure answer from what I read.

With the jack adapter made it should be easier to handle. Some told me that if I remove the hand brake drum the weight is a lot more manageable. The way that Shane suggested to do it was to remove the centre console and lower it with a sling and engine jack from above. This was the way I was going to go.

Sing out if you need and extra pair of hand to help you get it out. I have cleaned out my shed so I can remove my D1's engine and gear box. Gav and myself are hoping to have it out Sunday. If you need a shed with a flat concrete floor it will be available after then.

I hope some other can fill in the extra info required.

Did this recently on a 1995 D1 3.9 V8 Automatic. Used a 2 pole vehicle hoist to make life easier. From memory.

1. Disconnect the handbrake cable under the centre console. Don't forget to remove the clip which holds the handbrake sheath in place.
2. Remove top of radiator cowling.
3. Remove front and rear tails hafts.
4. Disconnect the exhaust. Don't remove just unbolt flanges.
5. Remove the crossmember between the chassis rails.
6. Disconnect the low/high range selector linkages from the top of the transfer case.
7. Put a trolley jack underneath the transmission, undo the bolts holding the transfer case and lower the rear of the transmission and transfer case down about 4 inches I think.
8. (Didn't do this, but remove the handbrake assembly to make everything a bit lighter)
9. Remove the bolts holding the transfer case and using 3 people slide the transfer case back and off. (If handbrake is removed you may get by with 2 people).

I tried making up a bracket for a second trolley jack but this proved awkward due to the assembly having to be slid backwards and down at the same time.
Was easier with more people.

FWIW there was an updated procedure released as a TB in 2007. It seems to change the sequencing of the process in RAVE slightly. LR usually update the procedures to remove unnecessary steps and to improve the sequencing of steps required, so I'd have to guess this is probably close to quickest way to do it. For the D2 they indicate the billable time for a remove and refit is 3.1 hours.

LTB00035.pdf

Kyle, the sequence of events in the LRSB is the way to go. Do you need the trans lift adaptor, because I have one you could use.

Pete

Thanks for the replies troups.

Originally Posted by Pierre

Kyle, the sequence of events in the LRSB is the way to go. Do you need the trans lift adaptor, because I have one you could use.

Pete

I'm happy with the what has to be undone ect..
I was tring to avoid playing with the exhaust if I could.
I'll make an adaptor I think, saves crossing town to pick it up and drop it off.
Thanks for the offer though

An update before I forget

Originally Posted by alien d2

......
This is where the brains trust comes in,I have some questions(it's a TD5 Automatic)...
-Is it nesesary to remove the exhuast or can I work around it?
-Is it easy to do the automatic out put seal while the transfer box is out?
-Do I need to drain the automatic to do 1, the transfer box removal and 2, the above seal?
-Does the handbrake backing plate slip over the rear out put flange or do I need to remove the flange?

I've droped the trasfer box off with a few little changes to the previously mentioned methods.
-I removed both rear mounts to gain better access to the cables and power switchs.
I then refitted the L/H mount finger tight before removing the trasfer box.
-The handbrake drum does slip over the output flange so tied it out of the way still conected via the cable.
-I also removed the counter weight, 3 bolts.
I left the breather hose on as lots of dirt/grit around the bolt, and hard to see for refitting.
-I havn't undone the exhaust.
As a result the transfer box needs to be twisted to get it off the automatic output shaft.
The plan is to put the input seal on the shaft, twist the box back on, fit the longer bolts, fitt the seal, do it all up(I'll let you know).
-The auto seal can be done but with care.
No need to drain the automatic to do it.
I thought, wrongly, it would be in a recess, IT"S NOT.
I had to undo the bolt holding the addaptor shaft on, it was firm but not tight.
It is simmilar to a diff pinion set up but no referance on Rave that I could see.
Carefully slide the spacer out and using a thin shaft screwdriver retreive the seal,it was over 120mm inside the rear of the automatic.
I fitted a new O ring between the output shaft and addaptor and tightned.
A drop of locktite was added to be sure.

My leaks were..
A weap from the automatic output seal.
A weap from the trasfer box input seal.
A leak from the intermediate shaft O ring, no dammage to the housing though.
Which way does this shaft move...Intermediate shaft, transfer box, which way is out?

Supplied with my parts was a bit of felt shaped like a washer and about 5mm thick.
It is to go over the end of the intermediate shaft to soak up the oil.
I'll "glue" it in place with salastic when refitting.


Thanks again for your input guys.

Hi,

I did this job on my 93 RRC recently, bit different to a D2 but not that much.

I replaced the auto seal at the same time, just take your old seal to BSC, $10. Be careful not to score the alloy when you remove. The same when refitting new seals to transfer. Oil will come out when you remove the spud shaft, and even more oil will spill out when you remove the seal. Maybe a litre or so. Might also be a good time to get a transmission oil filter kit while you have the cross member and exhaust out of the way. Kits are only $30-40 + trans oil. You'll need 8-9 L.

I put the transferbox back in by myself (not fun) used a standard trolley jack on one corner and I used a small windup jack on the other side with bits of wood etc. Also had some rope around it and attached It to 50mm metal pipe that sat across the floor tunnel with the seats in the full back position took me ages to align it, very small movements and small amounts of wiggle. grrrr. Not sure on the D2 but I had to drill out the rivets underneath the centre console. Have fun