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Thread: TD5 no throttle reponse when cold

  1. #1
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    TD5 no throttle reponse when cold

    OK this is for my 2000 TD5 Disco. Here is some background history:
    When I purchased the Disco she was loosing some coolant & running hot & apparently cutting out from time to time. Apparently the engine was not overheated. When cold she drove just fine. Throttle response from what I can remember seemed good too. Did idle a bit rough though & did notice oil in the engine harness. Cleaned out the oil & sealed up the injector harness connector to prevent oil transfer again.

    OK then I decided to remove the head, got it tested (hardness, cracks, vacuum etc)- all good just got a skim. Reinstalled with new head gasket, new injector seals, etc. Got her started and no throttle response until she had ran for some time. On Nanocom everything as far as I could tell looked fine. After running for a minute I would start to get throttle response in neutral but as soon as drive is selected no throttle response. Rev her up in neutral & shift quickly into drive, if the revs don't die too quickly she will start to pull away. After several minutes she will take off under her own steam in drive - not perfect but way better when cold. Now turn the A/C and from a standing start no throttle response. Also noticed at 80km/hr, for example, no load, on a flat section of road if I put my foot down she drops down to 3rd revs up & does not accelerate.

    Then replaced FPR (diaphragm leaking) and was letting in air when turned off. That is all good now. Disconnected AFM - no change. Swapped AFM with another 2nd hand LR unit - no change. Installed new injector harness even though the old was still good - no change. Swapped MAP sensor - no change. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter - no change. Checked the engine harness for oil on several occasions, clean a little out sometimes - no change. Checked that the Wastegate was free to move. Boost seems to be fine, from 100kpa to 230kpa on Nanocom.

    One thing I did do was install the ecu from the 03 Disco that I am parting out and this issue appeared to disappear. But off course the map was not right and she did not start the easiest when cold and ran rough for longer until warm then all seemed fine. I found several other incompatibilities such as low range switch on T/C appears to have reversed polarity on later Disco, also one the the brake switches was engaged according to the Euro3 ecu so I had no cruise control.

    Anyhow I don't think there is an issue with my ecu even thought the later one worked better. Also if it makes any difference the ecu is chipped (not the flash-able Euro3).

    I am about to check my earth's (suspect stray currents in coolant) & then the engine harness.

    Any ideas - please?

    Shane

  2. #2
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    Hi. Long shot just double check the valve timming

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    Have you checked the MAF readings with the Nanocom, a failed MAF will give you poor acceleration for 10 to 20 seconds after initial start . If its an auto a failed MAF will also cause "jumpy" gear shifts.

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    Hi Shane,
    sounds like you have checked most things.

    Does it have a cat, could be blocked?

    Disconnect the aap sensor or better still try another one.

    Does it have egr still fitted?
    If so, could be stuck open.

    Cheers,
    Paul.
    Paul.

    77 series3 (sold)
    95 300Tdi Ute (sold)
    2003 XTREME Td5

    I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.

  5. #5
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    alien is offline A Keeper of the TGO Silver Subscriber
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    When you changed the ECU did you use your Nanocom to reset the injector codes and type of throttle?
    The EU2 motors run a 2 wire throtle, the EU3 motor a 3 wire.

    Mine has been running poor and I just redid these as they reset to defaults while the head was off ages ago.
    Seems better on the one trip i've done.

    Also the Cruise/C, T/C, Air/C ect. can be turned on/off via the Nanocom.



    Cheers, Kyle.
    Cheers, Kyle



    The Good Oil.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by INDIE2002UK View Post
    Hi. Long shot just double check the valve timming
    I will check that soon. I do remember having a slight issue getting it aligned perfectly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gazk View Post
    Have you checked the MAF readings with the Nanocom, a failed MAF will give you poor acceleration for 10 to 20 seconds after initial start . If its an auto a failed MAF will also cause "jumpy" gear shifts.
    Yes - I was getting around 50 at idle & near 650 max.

    Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by harro View Post
    Hi Shane,
    sounds like you have checked most things.

    Does it have a cat, could be blocked?

    Disconnect the aap sensor or better still try another one.

    Does it have egr still fitted?
    If so, could be stuck open.

    Cheers,
    Paul.
    Hi Paul,

    no cat. The aap seemed to work fine ie around 100kpa. Also tried it disconnected - no difference.

    egr is there though I installed a blanking plate at the exhaust manifold end.

    Thanks,
    Shane

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    Quote Originally Posted by alien d2 View Post
    When you changed the ECU did you use your Nanocom to reset the injector codes and type of throttle?
    The EU2 motors run a 2 wire throtle, the EU3 motor a 3 wire.

    Mine has been running poor and I just redid these as they reset to defaults while the head was off ages ago.
    Seems better on the one trip i've done.

    Also the Cruise/C, T/C, Air/C ect. can be turned on/off via the Nanocom.



    Cheers, Kyle.
    Hi Kyle,

    That was the strange thing I do remember. When I checked the inj codes on the original (chipped) ecu the codes were all over the place, not only the order but some of the codes were wrong (not just the last digit either). So I fixed that up but made no difference.

    I also tried both 2 wire & 3 wire for the tps - neither made any difference. I do remember a few times when I selected 2 wire it still behaved like a 3 wire on the Nanocom screen. ie the 10v reading was still there & worked the full range???

    Thanks,
    Shane

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by wechosethegoodlife View Post
    Hi Kyle,

    That was the strange thing I do remember. When I checked the inj codes on the original (chipped) ecu the codes were all over the place, not only the order but some of the codes were wrong (not just the last digit either). So I fixed that up but made no difference.

    I also tried both 2 wire & 3 wire for the tps - neither made any difference. I do remember a few times when I selected 2 wire it still behaved like a 3 wire on the Nanocom screen. ie the 10v reading was still there & worked the full range???

    Thanks,
    Shane
    Shane,

    The 3rd reading when set to 2 wire is a "ghost" reading, it's not something the ECU is actually registering. Set the TPS to suit the TPS that is actually fitted.

    With the flashable ECU you can actually load a factory map to suit the EU2 engine. Depending on the ECU the required maps are:

    Td5 EU2 Manual (ROW):
    NNN000120 sthdr009-sttdp009
    NNN500020 sthdr009-sttdp010

    Td5 EU2 Auto (ROW):
    NNN000130 suhdr009-sutzp004
    NNN500030 suhdr009-sutzp005

    If you download the Nanocom One PC application from web.nanocom.it you'll find an app called "Nanocom Map Wizard" as part of the install. The map wizard allows you to generate most factory maps for the Td5 motor.

    I've attached a zip file containing the above maps.

    cheers
    Paul
    Attached Files Attached Files

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