Btw if you think that there's something else that could be wrong with it I'm more than happy for your opinion.
G'day I just did a 5 speed disco gearbox conversion on a rangie. We replaced the clutch, clutch master and the clutch slave at the gearbox. We tried sucking the air out we got a little bit of a pedal enough to get into gear but grabbing point was about an inch from the floor. Then we moved it out the shed and put it in first then go to change gear again there was no clutch. So we just tried the old school way of pumping the pedal excel and it just got firm but its still not getting a peddel.
What I'm getting at is what's the most effective way of bleeding the disco brake setup?
Btw if you think that there's something else that could be wrong with it I'm more than happy for your opinion.
I had a similar experience in one of my cars, check where your lines come out of your master cylinder and run along the fire wall then down to the slave at the gear box. if the line goes above the hieght of the master before going down to slave you may be getting an air lock in the line which as i found impossible to bleed out, I parked on a very steep side slope or if you have flexible lines unbolt them and hold them down and mananged to bleed the system with no problem there after.
just an idea that gave me a headache chasing it!!!!!
luke
My Disco did this too me ages ago, i ended up closing the Clutch reservoir cap and using a syphoning pump in reverse too draw through the clutch system under negative pressure too just before the slave cylinder it sounds stupid but you will eventually get it, Your wasting your time pumping the clutch pedal it will never work that way.
You will need to pump in the fluid from the slave cylinder up to the master. This method is very common on cab over trucks where air locks occur because of the way the fluid line is routed.
Get a small bottle that can be pressurized such as a Wurth pump bottle. If you can get a VERY large syringe from a vet that should also work.
To speed up the process, first remove the fluid line at the Master Cylinder and pump in the fluid from the bottom slave. When you see fluid reconnect the line and keep pumping.
Also check that lever ratio of the pedals are the same. If you cant push the rod far enough into the master you wont be able to throw the slave far enough to break drive in the clutch.
Hope this helps.
R2
OK cool tanks I'll have to try some of your ideas we used the oil can but had problems keeping it on the nipple so we just gave up and called it a night
it is a bitch of a job. we managed to do it thus:
attach a hose to the open bleed nipple of the slave, run it into a generously sized clear bottle or jar (we ran it through a hole in the lid to minimise spilling when moving it),
put enough brake fluid into the bottle to cover the end of the hose.
next, find yourself a friend who you can trust to follow simple instructions, the use of a mate who is basically stupid will not get the job done.
you will need a couple of bottles of brake fluid.
while your trusted mate is pumping the pedal constantly, pour brake fluid steadily into the master cylinder to keep it full.
periodically check the progress until all of the bubbles are gone from the jar on the floor.
whatever you do, don't stop pumping the pedal until the bleed screw at the slave is locked off.
this got the job done on my 110. wasn't much fun!
LAND ROVER;HELPING PUT OIL BACK IN THE GROUND FOR 70 YEARSCARS DON'T GET ANY "GREENER" THAT.
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