looks like thats the one that uses PWM to math out the position of the EGR it'll have 2 wires controlling the motor, 1 wire providing power to a sliding switch that will close to one contact when the EGR is fully closed and the other when fully open.
The other type uses a wiper resistor the same as the TPS on an older injected V8.
if memory serves the type with the contacts can be made to fully close but the one with the wiper cant. The ECU is configured to run with one or the other, if it expects the wiper signal it will get upset with a no flow situation from the EGR but the one with the contacts will allow you to have a fully closed EGR.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
You'd be surprised at just how easy it is.
Sitting there smugly in a still running and moving under its own power series. Especially when I pull in at a servo for a drink/pee brake and look at the price of fuel or pull up to see If I can help one thats broken down because of some nanny state thing or other. You know the kind of thing, like the park brake wont come off because a brake lights blown or when they cant get into a parking space because the car with the auto reverse parking feature is in the garage again getting the sensors replaced after someone hit it in the tail end.
It brings me virtually no end of satisfaction to realise that, hmm perhaps in about another 1000k's time I might have to go and pick up some more vege oil or that I really should spend 2 minutes and install the spare globe thats been sitting in the dash for a week or the fact that the last thing that ran into the back of my vehicle was given "go directly to the scrappies, do not enter a panel beaters, hope your owner get something from insurance".
Of course my Favorite thought about these things is..
"mate, If your vehicle is still on the road in 30 years time come and have a chat to me about dependability, reliability and value for money. No, Actually dont, because I'll probably tell you to come back and see me in another 30 years time when your vehicle is 60 years old and by then I probably wont be around anymore."
How many 30+ YO modern cars have you seen?
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Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Here is the link to BAS Hy-Brid turbo.
The stock turbo runs out of puff at about 3200rpm and new turbo can continue on to about 4000rpm.
Fitted with the intercooler, remap and suitable pipe mods - you will have yourself the best package available.
The other thing is BAS modifications are done within safe parameters.
.
Puma Defender 2.4TDCI Hybrid turbo. | Diesel performance tuning and economy remap chip tuning for Landrover Defender Discovery TD5 Puma TDV6 TDV8
I have an alive remap, would I recommend it? I don't know... I wish I could try a BAS one on for size on my defender to see the difference if any, but maybe I have high expectations, my latest map is good and it does drive better in most cases but there are times when the standard map is better. I have a large intercooler and decat, so maybe that is enough for performance.
so based on that mine drives better with the standard map and EGR doing its thing, only slower, go figure..
go BAS, don't forget to tell us all how good it is![]()
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