Thread: TeamFA's Gearbox Repair '02 Defender R380

I've had that hydraulic set for a few years now, and yes, it was a godsend when I did a gearbox. And a hydraulic press as well. I used to use brass drifts and a hammer - erk.

I can't think of anything wrong that wouldn't show up as damaged surfaces, or discolouration. Generally, it seems with gearboxes that as long as a part looks pretty close to new, it's okay. Keep in mind that the bearings may have had bits of metal through them, though.

These are the parts I reckon I'll need, to source from Ashcroft's:

• FTC4978 – Gear 5th Speed Countershaft Manual Transmission, 37 teeth
• TUO100100 – Layshaft
• EJP7738L - Nut - Man Trans Countershaft
• R380 Bearing Kit, 7 bearings
• R380 Oil Seals
• R380 Mainshaft Collar

I'll do the clutch while I'm at it. Dave says getting a clutch from him will up the freight costs, but I'm not having any luck finding a local supplier online than can do it cheaper, even with postage.

Just remembered to order a new mainshaft circlip (FTC3697) as well - distorted pretty badly getting it out.

Pete's thread (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/gclro-memb...n7s-d90-5.html - good thread to read for somebody like me, by the way) mentions shimming for end float, which I've read about and have a pretty good handle on from the rebuild manual. Is there a quick and easy source for getting hold of the necessary shims hereabouts?

Cheers!
Michael

Hi Michael,

I think I put the part numbers for the shims in my thread at the time. The suffix K/L layshaft shims are different to the earlier ones, and it wasn't that clear at the time.

I have a few spare shims here I am happy for you to use if you like to get a base clearance? I have TUZ100040, TUZ100020 and TUZ100080 here at the moment. (I used TUZ100060) They were 17$ each from Ricks 4wd in Nerang.

The other option would be to measure the one you have and get a couple either side from Ashcrofts and hope one of them is correct.

I would also change:

• Oil pump
• Oil pick up filter / gauze
• FTC4991 - Oil feed ring (and the little steel shim for it if its suffered any damage) (composite thing that site on the back of the main shaft)

How hard do you use the car. You could look at getting a solid flywheel conversion at the same time. I have one in my car. www.rakeway.co.uk

Rgds
Pete

Edited to add, The genuine sealant in my experience is miles better than anything else i have used. STC50550

Hi Michael,

Found it, here are the layshaft shim details:

start at TUZ100020, 1.477/1.452
next is TUZ100040, 1.502/1.477
upto TUZ100240, 2.027/2.002
then TUZ100270, 2.077/2.052
upto TUZ100330, 2.227/2.202

cheers
Pete

Cheers Pete!

Mine is the suffix L box. If any of the shims you have end up looking like they might do the job, I'll give you a yell - otherwise Rick's 4Wd in Nerang might be the go, when I get to that point.

Unlike your layshaft failure, I was lucky and had no damage at all to the oil pump and assembly. I pulled the oil pump out and disassembled (before reading that disassembly isn't recommended, due to the gasket being hard to replace), and it looks in perfect condition - picture below. Even the bearing appeared undamaged and had no noticeable play or distortion. Likewise, I think I'll be able to clean and re-use the oil filter.

I've looked at the solid flywheel clutch conversion - not so much for performance, but for the simplicity of being able to machine the flywheel at next clutch change, but the $$ are out of my reach at the moment. I'm going to try and get away with just the standard clutch kit sans dual-mass flywheel.

Hey - after completing this job, dropping the box for a new clutch in future will be a doddle!

I must say I really appreciate the effort you went to in documenting your rebuild - it's given me a heap of pointers in the right direction. Funny that while looking at your thread this morning, I suddenly knew first hand what each of the pictures really represented!

Thanks again,
Michael.

Very timely thread Michael, AFTER replacing the clutch assembly on the Defender I am now not particularly happy with the amount of gearbox input bearing noise. So I guess I'll have to pull the whole thing out again. Got to be easier the second time, especially with all the anti seize I used.
What I'm unsure of is whether I can get to the input bearing from the front or if I've got to dismantle the whole thing. Or should I go all out and replace all the gearbox bearings ?
Like many 200K+ Landys there is a fair amount of slop in the drive train, though I did check the output shaft/gear in the TC which looked OK (probably about 20 though slop here). So I guess the slop's in the centre diff. May as well check this at the same time.

I've got visions of an input bearing change and perhaps a couple of centre diff shims/thrust washers replacement turning into something bigger than Ben Hurr.

Please tell me I'm wrong and I've just a simple gearbox/TC removal with minor part replacement ahead.

Deano

From (very recent) memory, the bearing race is pressed into the gearbox front cover from the inside, but I'm not sure if it would be as simple as removing the bolts from the front cover and sliding the cover up and off the input shaft.

A quick look at the MicroCat exploded diagrams seems to indicate that you might be able to. If the bearing comes off with the front cover you might be right, but if it binds to the shaft, I can't see how you would get it off from there.
Edit: Sorry, I would guess that the race would come off with the front cover, but the bearing itself would remain on the shaft... might be tricky to remove that bit.

I'm a rank amateur when it comes to this, though... hopefully someone more knowledgeable will be along shortly...

Diagram:
1 - Front Cover
2 - Input Shaft Oil Seal
4 - Input Shaft Bearing

Pete, is that rakeaway conversion only for TD5's?

what sealant are you reffering to?