Thread: Removed gear box

Make sure you do T seals at the same time you do the rear main. Buy the genuine ones and fit them with a silcone sealant. They are a bit of fun to get in but worth it if you have everything off

Put plenty of sealant on the rear main housing when you bolt it on, don't trust just the gasket (I did once and it leaked)

Also be sure to do your intermediate shaft o-ring, thats the one that would be leaking. Put a slightly oversize o-ring in and smear the end with silastic or silicone sealant of some sort

You may also consider doing your 5th gear bearings in the box.

R380 5th gear

When I did what you doing on my old Landy, I replaced most of the stuff you're doing apart from those and it was the whine that I had been chasing all along

Also a trick I did with my crossmember, a few bits of wood and a screw type jack and it's possible to jack the chassis apart a little so that the crossmember just slips out. Makes it easier for fitment as well, when lining up the bolt holes

I just done the same thing in my 130 I found it was easier to pull the motor and box out at the same time it took 15 hrs to do the whole job.

Did the clutch in my 1995 130 several weeks ago. AFTER pulling the gearbox/TC out I decided it was a LOT easier to remove the tops off the gearbox and TC where the gear levers go. This meant not having to tilt the engine at an extreme angle to clear the seat base. Also easier to drain gearbox/TC oil in situ than on the ground.

When re installing, after lining up input shaft,clutch and bell housing bolts. It was real easy to use a screw jack on the chassis member behind the TC to gently ease the gearbox/TC assembly home. A lot more control and less hassle than the usual wriggling grunting and swearing this usually takes.

Be careful with the front prop shaft as it is not in phase, or whatever the term is. The unis appear to be about an eighth of a turn out of 'true' when you compare one to the other. This is normal. Mark carefully if you're going to separate.

I also found that the little plastic U clip that holds the thrust bearing in place for assembly kept falling off. Drove me mad till I stuck in back with a big blob of silicon.

A common LR problem is slop in the drive train caused by wear in the gearbox output shaft and transfer gear, but there's plenty of info about on this. Mine was OK but I've still got plenty of slop which I reckon is in the centre diff but don't know for sure. Also now that I've got it all back together I'm not happy with the gearbox input bearing, how much whine is OK ?, so may have to pull it all to bits again. . But at least I used plenty of anti seize on the bolts/nuts so should come apart easy enough.

I also had oil weeping from the TC, at first I thought it was from the bottom plate leaking, but actually was from oil weeping down the cover plate retaining bolts and out from under their heads. Silicon on the top part of the bolt shank and under the head fixed this. Also had the same issue with a couple of bolts on the front of the TC, fixed the same way.


Deano

Originally Posted by DeanoH

AFTER pulling the gearbox/TC out I decided it was a LOT easier to remove the tops off the gearbox and TC where the gear levers go. This meant not having to tilt the engine at an extreme angle to clear the seat base.

Funnily enough, I worked out that this would make for easier removal... AFTER I had removed it.

Will be doing this for reassembly, for sure.

I went through a similar exercise a while back. Boss I work for had a defender. Made up a handy bit of kit that he gave to me as he has sold the defender.


Works a treat.
Cheers Hall

Hi,
changed the rear main oil seal.. what a peculiar thing it is.. and I love the way it spits a plastic ring in your face as you tighten the bolts!

Got a new clutch kit, reinforced fork , slippers, plastic clips etc which I'll put on next week. Before I put the flywheel back on , is it recommended to use new bolts?

I split the transfer box from the main gear box to replace the oil seals and gaskets. I took out the oil seal from where the gear box shaft enters the transfor box and found copper filings! Took of the cover plate to the high/low selector and found more copper filings. I've decided to take it apart compeletly and and get it cleaned up. I'm guess I'm looking at the remains of a copper washer that dropped inside.

Also suspect that the transfer box is reconditiond, I cleaned up the case on the outside and painted on it in big letters 698.. looks like a stock number.

That's my adventure today.
Some pictures. Note the copper filings in the spring.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/56036536@N07/


Glenn.

Originally Posted by gmawby

Hi,
changed the rear main oil seal.. what a peculiar thing it is.. and I love the way it spits a plastic ring in your face as you tighten the bolts!

Got a new clutch kit, reinforced fork , slippers, plastic clips etc which I'll put on next week. Before I put the flywheel back on , is it recommended to use new bolts?

I split the transfer box from the main gear box to replace the oil seals and gaskets. I took out the oil seal from where the gear box shaft enters the transfor box and found copper filings! Took of the cover plate to the high/low selector and found more copper filings. I've decided to take it apart compeletly and and get it cleaned up. I'm guess I'm looking at the remains of a copper washer that dropped inside.

Also suspect that the transfer box is reconditiond, I cleaned up the case on the outside and painted on it in big letters 698.. looks like a stock number.

That's my adventure today.
Some pictures. Note the copper filings in the spring.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/56036536@N07/


Glenn.

Glenn, NO that brass flake material is the remains of your centre differential thrust washers, best pull the centre diff out and take a squiz....

JC

Hi,
it's in bits now.. take a a look at the pictures. I'm going to have difficulty removing the bearings etc. I assume they are pressed on , any ideas? Plan now is to clean up the casing, disassemble the diff and clean everything else and go through the rebuild process. I will fit new bearings and housings.


Things that were not quit right , The stake nut on the intermediate shaft was not not very tight, the countersunk screws on the input shaft are missing, there a few studs missing from the case which I'll try and source.

Flickr: gmawby's Photostream