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Thread: Wheel Studs

  1. #1
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    Wheel Studs

    I replaced the wheel studs on 1 side of my 2A.
    They screw into the hub. OE studs are peened over to prevent them turning. I opted for spot welding.
    One has failed and when I looked at the stud, the broken metal looks almost porous like it's made of cast iron!

    (apologies! My camera can't focus up close)



    What's going on here?? They can't surely be cast? I tried again & put a big blob of weld over it but the molten metal did not stick to the stud.

    This means the other 4 are suspect. This could be serious as the aftermarket ones can't be peened so it's welding or relying on the threads via Loctite.

    Comments??

    I was going to invest in some Nickel rods for my stick welder or perhaps a small spool of Ni wire for the MIG and try again.

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Bit hard to tell in view of the photo, but my guess is that the problem is the quality of the welding, and, perhaps, highlights the problems with using welding to secure the studs. I would also suspect that the threads in the stud are damaged - the primary grip on the stud is the thread, and all the staking or welding has to do is to stop it turning. If the nut is kept properly lubricated with anti-seize, there should be no tendency for the stud to unscrew, provided the thread in the hub is in good condition.

    The stud is certainly not cast, but of course, the weld is.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
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  3. #3
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    Welding high strength steel studs to lower strength steel hubs is a strict no-no, the weld will never be stong as the heating crystallises the metal adjacent to the weld. Loctite would be faaaar safer.

  4. #4
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    For reasons of safety, I am always of the opinion that if the OEM studs on a S1/SII/SIIa fail then the thread in the hub is already too damaged to replace with OEM screw in studs.

    Ideally you should get the hub re-bored with a dividing head on a mill to accept the push in studs.



    e.g. 561886 WHEEL STUD PUSH-IN TYPE| shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series Note: image not same part number!

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  5. #5
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    Hmmmmmmmm!

    Thnx for the, as ever, pertinent replies.

    This vehicle had a winch based on an Ford Prefect diff actually welded onto the bull-bar which I've set aside as a possible future mini project. The diff casing seems to be cast and it is welded quite securely to the bull-bar suggesting welding cast to steel can be done.

    ATM, with only 1 dud out of 5, I'm leaning towards, a hex-headed 9/16 BSF bolt screwed in from the back and welded in position. ATM as I tighten up, the torque stresses the "weld". With the bolt as it beds in it should resist the torque. The problem is finding a bolt!

  6. #6
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    The old prefect diff housing is probably cast steel rather than cast iron. This is true of many vehicle components- people commonly use the term 'cast', thinking they are talking about what the material is, when in fact they are only stating how the material was formed to shape. Cast steel can be welded with the same methods used for mild steel stock.
    The easy way to tell the difference between cast steel and cast iron is to try and chip it with a cold chisel. Cast iron will chip, whereas cast steel will peel.
    Your hubs are most likely cast steel I would think. You have probably annealed and weakened your studs by welding them to the hub.

  7. #7
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by POD View Post
    ..... You have probably annealed and weakened your studs by welding them to the hub.
    Or embrittled them by rapid chilling from the mass of cold steel that the hub represents!

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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