Thread: Timing Td5

I would stick with the loctite 515

If the timing cover is still on it's fairly hard (but posible) for the chain to jump a tooth.

You could get the timing case of with the sump fitted.
Refitting is near on imposible, it goes over the rubber sump gasket while salasticing the joins and aligning up a dowel or two.
If the head is on the front stud from the cover has to be removed too.
If the head is on remove/undo the above stud, drop/remove sump(oil bolt done?) and remove the cover.
Refit using good sealants on all the joins.

I'd sugest locking the crank and seeing what ligns up.
Set your cam timing and recheck it 2 or 3 times.
Remove the cam to gear bolts individually, locktite and tension. the other 2 bolts will hold the gear in location this way.

Cheers, Kyle.

PS. Send a PM if talking over the phone is easier.

Like Kyle says, pretty much impossible for it to jump a tooth, anyway rectifying it is easy. Lock the engine at TDC, I am assuming you have zip tied the chain to the cam sprocket? cut the zip tie, reposition the chain onto the cam sprocket trial and error until it is timed to the cam, which can be locked too using the slot in the top of the cam box.
fit tensioner and rotate engine twice clockwise. Recheck crank position and timing slot at cam, all should be fine. IF it is out a little, you can loosen the cam sprocket bolts as they are slotted in order to fine tune the timing.


JC

Thanks for the info guys. I have decided to remove the sump and the front cover just to be sure. While I am there I will loctite the oil pump bolt and put in a sensor for engine oil temp while the sump is off. while the sump is off I will pull the caps on the rods and check the bearings. Can't hurt seeing as the sump will be off. Its been off the road for a few months so a little longer won't matter.
Any idea what the numbers on the little roller rockers mean?
I have looked through Rave but can't find any reference to them.


Thanks
R2

Originally Posted by R2D2

Thanks for the info guys. I have decided to remove the sump and the front cover just to be sure. While I am there I will loctite the oil pump bolt and put in a sensor for engine oil temp while the sump is off. while the sump is off I will pull the caps on the rods and check the bearings. Can't hurt seeing as the sump will be off. Its been off the road for a few months so a little longer won't matter.
Any idea what the numbers on the little roller rockers mean?
I have looked through Rave but can't find any reference to them.


Thanks
R2

I had plans of checking my bottom end bearings also, I quit when I realized the oil pump and brace had to come off first

What numbers on what roller rockers are you talking about?

Leave the big ends and mains alone. They are micro tolerance fit, and quite frankly we have not seen a worn out bottom end yet, some approaching 500,000km.

You WILL introduce a problem by fiddling with them IMO.

These engines are VERY well designed and robust, no need to play with them.

JC