So Tombie,
How do fyrlyt's compare to halogen Rallye 4000s (available for half the price)???
Susquehanna MotorSports - Auto Performance Product
And what were they thinking with the stupid text-speak name...
Thanks Tombie
Only passing on some info from a salesman who sold both. He had had his FYRLYT's for some time ( 18 months ??) and not replaced a globe. The distances he quoted were for his personal experience. But as I said he was going to change to Great White LED's.
Me I will wait and see if I'm happy with my FYRLYT's. And if not will probably add a LED bar. Which was in the back of my mind all along.
Gary
So Tombie,
How do fyrlyt's compare to halogen Rallye 4000s (available for half the price)???
Susquehanna MotorSports - Auto Performance Product
And what were they thinking with the stupid text-speak name...
Short story: The name was a forced - Firelight and most derivatives have already been registered and Tm'd - Try finding something that hasn't nowadays.
Not much different to KC Hilite
Comparison to Hella 4000s:
The Hella is a good solid light, but not sealed, so dust and water get in.
Construction is ok.
Optics are not as efficient
Fixed type
Glass (Breakable) lense
100w bulb - output is lower in lumen / watt as well (will confirm actual numbers for you)
Spot is just that a spot
Spread is spread
Fyrlyt is:
Highly efficient reflector
Spread or 'spot' - And this is where Fyrlyt differ - Spot is a larger 'spot' providing more usable light light where its needed.
The spread is a wall of light
Quick change bulb holder
Hard coated lense and reflector - wont go grey
Fully rebuildable
Light output far greater
Lighter and stronger - We parked a BJ40 on top of a Fyrlyt
No covers to reduce light output - if you dont cover a Hella the glass is prone to cracking from stones - reduces output to 83%
Sealed - No dust or water ingress
I've had the opportunity to have and use:
IPF 900 - with HIR bulbs
Hella 4000
LF XGT
LF HID 240 50w
LF 170
LF 170 HID
LF 140
KC Hilite
Hella Bull Spots
FYRLYTs
30" Rigid Light Bar (LED)
All the lights above are good units, and most would be happy with any of them (except the LF 140 - bit light on for Driving lights more an infill).
But nothing holds a candle to the FYRLYTs...
The Light bar is a world of its own in how they perform and their purpose.
cheers
Hi Cal415
I was told that the globe life is 300 hours and that replacement bulbs can be purchased for around $12. I believe this is a lot less that what is offered by HIDs (2000 hours?). Assuming he needs to replace the globe 7 times in the same period that a HID would run, it would cost about $84; this is still a lot cheaper than the difference in price between a HID and fyrlyt. The globe is apparently also very easy to change yourself. If I buy the fyrlyts, I might buy a few spare bulbs for him to pop in his glove box (or wherever he keeps that sort of stuff).
From my own research, I believe the total current draw for the pair would be 25 amp, aka. 300w (as they're 150w bulbs) equals 25 amp draw at 12v. This is also higher than HIDs.
All that said, overall, looking at quality of product, quality/ output of light, ability to do own maintenance, and cost, I think the fyrlyt is still my first choice. I might suggest he purchase a LED bar in the future though, like goingbush (ps. I love the video with the roos!), to work alongside the fyrlyts.
Most of you are probably aware, although, as I could have potentially tripped up on this, I thought it best to make those considering buying fyrlyts aware. Previously you could only buy the following two models
FYRLYT 12V 100W Xenophot 2800 Lumen Light
FYRLYT 24V 150W Xenophot 5000 Lumen Light
However, as per the fyrlyt website, you can now also buy
FYRLYT 12V 150W Xenophot 5000 Lumen Light
Some companies are still selling the 100W light online which is definitely inferior in regard to lumens. Something to keep in mind![]()
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