By the way, if you don't have access to a mill with a rotary table, and are planning to do the slotting on a drill press like I did, I have a jig that I made to hold and rotate the swivels on the drill press table, you are welcome to use it.
You're only talking about a couple of degrees and you're only planning to drive it like that for a short time, personally I wouldn't give it a second thought. There are probably hundreds of Rangies out there (not to mention all the other makes) with caster out of whack in the other direction that will never get corrected, so you will not be the biggest malefactor on the road by a long chalk.
Also, not only is there a small amount of material removed from the flanges, but if you add a couple of bolts to prevent it rotating, it will be stronger than original. Mine now has 9 bolts in each flange in place of the original 7, and vehicles 2 years earlier had 6.
By the way, if you don't have access to a mill with a rotary table, and are planning to do the slotting on a drill press like I did, I have a jig that I made to hold and rotate the swivels on the drill press table, you are welcome to use it.
If you're paying someone to do the job, make sure they have the aforementioned mill with rotary table. It was a cow of a job in the drill press but hey, the price was right.
Can't have too many EAS spares, must catch up some time.
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
So what is the point of getting engineering and roadworthy done and then change the configuration afterwards?
Why don't you turn up for the engineering and roadworthy with the vehicle as you intend to set it up for use?
because it won't pass, or may'be it will at a great expence and a lot more work.
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