A sals or not?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

Easy, one of the functions of oil is that of a cooling agent. Thats why pistons have underside squirters, to keep the bottom of the piston crown cool.

---

Aaah, that makes sense now.

Serg's Sals has a Maxi Drive diff lock with a piston to activate it, so it needs a squirter to keep its piston cool so it needs oil.

Mine doesn't have a Maxi Drive so it doesn't have a piston, so it needs glycol to keep it cool ! :D

That it :confused:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rick130

Deano, there's so much meat on the bottom of the Sals that can be ground off before you even encroach on the oil compartment.

If you are going for a radical shave and it's a play only rig, yes, you can cut the entire bottom off and weld a new plate on and even machine down the OD of the crown wheel a bit to gain clearance.

I've only taken enough to cut into where the bottom bolt hole is/was, and I've relocated that hole further along.

What I've done = roughly 19mm of extra clearance, without compromising strength IMO if you use one of the HD covers.
I also use Loctite 515 or 518 as a sealant to 'glue' the cover on and gain some unitisation/strength from the HD cover.

Oh, and I run at least 3l of oil now too, the new cover generally increases oil volume.

---

Hi rick, are there any pics of your diff?

JC

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by justinc

Hi rick, are there any pics of your diff?

JC

---

JC, there's threads on my diff ;)

I'll find a link and a pic :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rick130

JC, there's threads on my diff ;)

I'll find a link and a pic :D

---

ah, thanks, i must've missed them...:angel:

:D

jc

Well the original thread was six years ago, and Brazilians are so passé these days so it's understandable you may have missed it :angel:

All the old pics were lost from the original thread, so this pic is a bit newer.

I cut/ground up to the bottom bolt hole, actually breaking through slightly.
I made a blind stud and screwed that into it with some Loctite liquid metal to fill the void, then drilled and tapped a hole further up and along, and re-drilled the cover and counter bored it for the bolt head and washer by grinding a big drill bit square to work as an end mill and using the drill press as a a bodgey mill.
I think I just filled the hole in the cover with some two part epoxy filler.

Original thread was here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...brazilian.html

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/7943/img0353gp.jpg



http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1347619984

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rick130

Aaah, that makes sense now.

Serg's Sals has a Maxi Drive diff lock with a piston to activate it, so it needs a squirter to keep its piston cool so it needs oil.

Mine doesn't have a Maxi Drive so it doesn't have a piston, so it needs glycol to keep it cool ! :D

That it :confused:

---

not at all, see the fins on the rockcrusher cover.

Air cooling fins, same as the ones on small stationary air cooled engines.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

not at all, see the fins on the rockcrusher cover.

Air cooling fins, same as the ones on small stationary air cooled engines.

---

Ah, so it's a dak dak diff ! :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

If you look at it and think

"Yes, I could beat an Isuzu 4bd1 to death with that" then its a sals.

(also the cover plate that can be removed from the back to allow you to inspect the diffs internals is a giveaway)

---

Other methods;

• Can you pick it up on your own, if yes then it's not.
• Does it look like you should have it in your rover (no matter if it's a Series/Defender/Disco or RRsport) then it is.

The Holy Grail, just like described in a movie. A simple basic HD unit that does the same job as a fancy schmancy unit but fit for a carpenter. (not Karen though)

Edit: Sorry, a RRS is a Disco. My bad.