Reply With QuoteIf you look at it and think
"Yes, I could beat an Isuzu 4bd1 to death with that" then its a sals.
(also the cover plate that can be removed from the back to allow you to inspect the diffs internals is a giveaway)
Master
Quick question, how do I identify if it's a salsbury diff or not?
RoverLord
If you look at it and think
"Yes, I could beat an Isuzu 4bd1 to death with that" then its a sals.
(also the cover plate that can be removed from the back to allow you to inspect the diffs internals is a giveaway)
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
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TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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ForumSage
the backing plate on the rear of the diff unbolts to remove the centre. A rover diff bolts in from the front as a complete unit.
Master
Thanks guys
ForumSage
this pic may help, note it has an after market diff cover and the round "can" attached to the left of the center is a diff lock actuator...
Last edited by uninformed; 9th January 2017 at 07:10 PM.
Moderator
Needs a shaveOriginally Posted by uninformed
this pic may help, note it has an after market diff cover and the round "can" attached to the left of the center is a diff lock actuator...
The SHCS's look good.
I think I'll take another 5mm or so off mine just to show Pat a Sals can be as trim as a Rover diff and so will have to change the bottom bolts to SHCS's, so may as well go stainless all round, eh
ForumSage
It has been. Nothing radical just to the bottom of the cover. I'm not sure I would go stainless???
ChatterBox
SubscriberOK I'll bite.Needs a shave
The SHCS's look good.
I think I'll take another 5mm or so off mine just to show Pat a Sals can be as trim as a Rover diff and so will have to change the bottom bolts to SHCS's, so may as well go stainless all round, eh
SHCS's second hand crappy springs (don't mean it but came to mind)
solid head cap screws (refering to the Unbrako's)
Sals diff shaving seems to be a popular subject, wouldn't the decrease in oil capacity be an issue ? or is the diff then 'overfilled' ?
What about crown wheel housing clearance, how much is enough ?
Perhaps the wrong place to ask but interested all the same.
Deano
TopicToaster
Deano a shave doesn't reduce oil capacity, it just removes extra metal from the bottom of the housing, there is an over-abundance of metal that scrapes on rocks.
The HD covers usually increase the oil capacity anyway. My cover is the same as the one in Uninformed photos minus the bullet proof strap over the crown wheel
Moderator
Deano, there's so much meat on the bottom of the Sals that can be ground off before you even encroach on the oil compartment.
If you are going for a radical shave and it's a play only rig, yes, you can cut the entire bottom off and weld a new plate on and even machine down the OD of the crown wheel a bit to gain clearance.
I've only taken enough to cut into where the bottom bolt hole is/was, and I've relocated that hole further along.
What I've done = roughly 19mm of extra clearance, without compromising strength IMO if you use one of the HD covers.
I also use Loctite 515 or 518 as a sealant to 'glue' the cover on and gain some unitisation/strength from the HD cover.
Oh, and I run at least 3l of oil now too, the new cover generally increases oil volume.
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