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Thread: Daddy Drill Bits

  1. #21
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    I have the cover off and on workbench, the hole is blind.

  2. #22
    85 county is offline AULRO Holiday Reward Points Winner!
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    since you have already drilled so far and you are using a hand drill, i would be inclined to take it into an Eng shop to get it removed. sorry may be cheaper in the long run.

    if it was me i would be taking it to work any way

  3. #23
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    Is it possible to weld a nut onto it and then unscrew the nut???
    Andrew
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  4. #24
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    slug_burner, PM sent. Here are the photos. I have no idea how to post photos on a PM so here they are.

    The tc burr in the upper left corner is end cutting cylindrical.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    URSUSMAJOR

  5. #25
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    clean it well, stick it in the wifes oven on as high as it can go. (you want to hit about 400 degrees)

    pull it out and sit it over a small gas burner, hit the stud with freeze'n'release (in a well ventilated area) then have a go at it with drill out stud extractor.
    Dave

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  6. #26
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    ok thanks for all the tips. I have finally sorted it. After drilling slowly with a cobalt I manged to penetrate the stud but after all remnants were removed the hole was seriously oversized even for helecoil.

    I filled it with Devcon FasMetal and sanded it back then drill and tapped that.. very happy with the result. Just hope it lasts.

    I should be able to post some photos of the damaged hole and fix when I get onto my other computer later this evening.

    If from the start I had the best tools and methods for the job (well described in this thread) it could probably have been saved with less damage but I'm happy to have found devcon!

  7. #27
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    The oversized hole.. not good.


    Some tape over area to mask off, hole cut out with stanley knife.


    In with the devcon goop


    Off with the mask


    Sand flat


    Target aquired by mounting pump, painting the inside of the hole and bit of measuring.


    Drilled, tapped and helecoiled




    I also managed to sort the stud I had stuck in the timing case.. the stud was a way into the hole and sheared at an angle so could not get a center punch on it. Being hevily corroded I managed to flatten it some with a masonary bit and then had enough depth to install my shallowest of helecoils. Becasue the hole is now shorter by about 1/4 the new fastner needs a bit of a trim or maybe just a thick spring and flat washer. Either way it should be good for the torque and stand up to more than a few pump changes.

    Bar any more unpleasant suprises I should have her all back together with new coolant and on the run before the weekends done! Could be in for some happy days

  8. #28
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    Well Done Mate ...
    Sometimes it can't get any worse and then you can just go for it.

    probably better than new now anyway
    Stevo

  9. #29
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    for future reference
    When a steel bolt is sheared into an aluminium part

    First step is the weld a nut to the bolt/stud trick
    The heat from weld will release the bind
    The nut gives something to turn
    Weld wont fuse the aluminium

    Steve
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
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  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    for future reference
    When a steel bolt is sheared into an aluminium part

    First step is the weld a nut to the bolt/stud trick
    The heat from weld will release the bind
    The nut gives something to turn
    Weld wont fuse the aluminium

    Steve
    ok steve, but I'm sure there are many others out there like me who have never welded anything before. I would love to see my GF's face when I tell her I have installed welding equipment in the garage (I cant fit much in there.) hahaa.. Seems like an extremely useful skill so I will get to it one day I'm sure.

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