Thread: 300 TDI Timing Belt Mod Kit

The mod kit's are only needed depending on the VIN and there's no new 'kits' as such, just when your 80,000km or 10 years is up (oops) swap the belt out and install a new case seal and the most important thing is to do the belt up to the new, lower tension, not what is stated in the manual.

I doubt the grease would be an issue in the idler and tensioner, but you can change these too if you really, really want to.

If yours has the crank gear with spot welded 'ears' I'd change that for the Bearmach version which is a much better design and safer in the long run, and if you do you'll need a new O ring for behind it, and don't forget the timing case gasket either.

Thanks Rick,
Must have been the spot welded pulley that I read about somewhere that had me wondering.
I'll pull it down tomorrow and have a look.

tension setting is 13nm, I'll find that again to make sure
Is there any other way to set the tension, other that using a dial type torque wrench.-Probably not.

10 years is a long time between belt changes.
The Defender has been sitting here basically composting for 7 years.
It shall live again.

Cheers,
Tony

Yes, you can use a click type/deflecting beam tension wrench, it's what most of us use.

I'll have a look for the TSB that lists the revised belt tension.

[edit] 11Nm is the revised figure, down from 15Nm, and the best/easiest instructions for doing it are three PDF's here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/4...ming-belt.html

Thanks for that info.
Most helpfull.

[QUOTE=jboot51;1769877]
Is there any other way to set the tension, other that using a dial type torque wrench.-Probably not.

I use some accurate spring type fishing scales and a socket T-bar with a mark at the 1 foot mark. Pull on the scales until I get 8.1lb's at the one foot marker and thats the 11nm. I have a 10lb weight for testing the scales and they are bang on. I was advised not to use the click type torque wrenches for this type of job.
Cheers
Mark

I used spring scales as well. Just checked their accuracy before hand and technically the wrench/bar should be upright when measuring the force, otherwise the bar adds a small amount of force as well.

But even then... it was quite difficult holding it exactly right while someone else tightened the bolt, I seriously doubt most people have it on EXACTLY 11NM. If you are careful, I don't see why you couldn't get it as close as everyone else with a click-type torque wrench.