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Thread: DIY Rear storage.

  1. #11
    Roverlord off road spares is offline AT REST
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sharkee View Post
    My current unfinished one


    One I made for my last cruiser


    This was a basic ply setup I made for my last TD5 that housed a battery in the right side of it, where the 3rd row seat used to be. Allhonesty I liked this the best. Simple and very useable.


    This was a drop down cavity thingy sort of what your talking of doing.Not a disco was on my trol.



    Similar drop down I had on my pajero


    Cavity one I made for my cruiser I had years ago


    Yes Ive had a few fourbies. Posted this DM in case you can get any any ideas from them

    Steve
    WOW That's a lot of different badges of 4bys you had before the Disco, .... it took all those, before you became enlightened


  2. #12
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    you can see mine here, the base is held down with bolts into the original tie downs at the back and bottlescrews at the front from the tie down loops to the box.
    all made with 12mm ply, drawer on the right just made using plastic skids underneath, fridge slide uses 100kg runners off ebay.
    all up with carpet, paint, runners etc i think $200 and not a right angle in sight.

  3. #13
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    Rear Storage Design

    Sounds obvious, but don't forget, if you want to be able to remove the system quickly, it needs to either be demountable/in kit form, or at least have a cutout/indended drivers side wall and floor - to make provision on the drivers side to clear the rear door bottom section storage bin when you are sliding it in and out (assuming you have a storage bin that is - I see Yorkie doesn't)
    Last edited by gavinwibrow; 16th November 2012 at 09:16 AM. Reason: clarify rear door storage bin
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  4. #14
    Judo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    Sounds obvious, but don't forget, if you want to be able to remove the system quickly, it needs to either be demountable/in kit form, or at least have a cutout/indended drivers side wall and floor - to make provision on the drivers side to clear the rear door bottom section storage bin when you are sliding it in and out (assuming you have a storage bin that is - I see Yorkie doesn't)
    Mine is being built only wide enough to go between the wheel arches, so it should fit in/out through the back door in 1 piece. Howver mine is not going to be as comprehensive as some other ones. I'm using these as a test run. Get something basic in and working, use it a few times, then next time I'll know exactly what I want.

    Edit; Only spent $57 on ply wood so it's not a huge outlay. Will go all fancy next time.
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    Sounds obvious, but don't forget, if you want to be able to remove the system quickly, it needs to either be demountable/in kit form, or at least have a cutout/indended drivers side wall and floor - to make provision on the drivers side to clear the rear door bottom section storage bin when you are sliding it in and out (assuming you have a storage bin that is - I see Yorkie doesn't)
    That's something I hadn't thought of, I might relocate the storage bin to the other side so it's cleared with the rear door open
    Cheers
    Muppet

  6. #16
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    As mine is mostly for work, I used 20mm steel frame for mine so I can tie stuff to it. Height is just below the windows, width of the frame is only the width of the double seat. Didn't want it to move so welded a tab to the front so it picks up the centre seat belt anchor, one tab to an existing screw point by the back window and one in the centre at the bottom under the plastic moulding. Frame incorporates ply shelves and a couple of tool drawers at the bottom, and a flip down table for when the door is open. Still have room for a 45l fridge to the left of the frame which sits on a small false floor above the wheel well.

  7. #17
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    I've currently got a storage set up made of 12mm construction ply with a marine carpet over the top. Its bolted to the cargo barrier at one end and uses what I'm guessing are some bolt holes for the side facing seats at the other end.
    The side panel hinges up and is held in place with magnetic cupboard catches. This also allows it to be narrow enough to be removed easily if I need.

    Its a bit different now than in the pic as I couldn't find a current photo, but at the moment it's got additional full length pieces of ply used as slides, held in place with channel sections of nylon and I've done away with the strap across the end.

    It's set up so that I can fit 2 of those square Hannibal canvas bags down each side - food in one, recovery gear in another, spares in the 3rd and tools in the last one.
    Works pretty well so far.

    http://www.aulro.com/app/data/500/medium/storage_2a.jpg


    I had a Qubelok set-up in my old Rangie, made into an L shape with the old engel sitting on the floor.

    http://www.aulro.com/app/data/500/medium/traveller2.jpg

    Dan

  8. #18
    Sharkee Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares View Post
    WOW That's a lot of different badges of 4bys you had before the Disco, .... it took all those, before you became enlightened
    There were 3 x GQ's, 2 x 80's, 1 x Prado, 1 x Pajero, 1 x Jeep, including current vehicle 2 x TD5's. So pretty much covered most popular ones
    Steve

  9. #19
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    Long-ish time between pics, but thought I'd post an update of what the storage in the back of the disco looks like now.


    http://www.aulro.com/app/data/500/me...116_180000.jpg

    The drawer section uses the same 12mm ply and you can just make out the end of the nylon channel section used as a slide. The ply was a bit of a slack fit, so I glued another piece of carpet on top of it to take up the gap. It's rattle free and its now a tight enough fit in the nylon channel that I haven't bothered to use any sort of lock mechanism to keep it in the closed position, it stays put on its own.

    The only real pain with the whole thing is that the top deck is about 20mm too low - a standard 5 litre pack of oil won't fit upright underneath (so they're strapped to the cargo barrier...), which annoys me no end....

    Dan

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