Page 2 of 11 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 105

Thread: Another 300 tdi overheat!

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    151
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by steveG View Post
    Also, the youngest production 300tdi's are nearly 15 years old now, so if they still have the original coolant hoses......

    Steve
    Yeah something I have just started to consider! I will replace the hose and see how it goes but I am not optimistic

    We are getting another vehicle in the interim.... I was quoted $1600 for a locally supplied reconditioned head but paddocks advertise OE heads for £310 + £130 delivery.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,511
    Total Downloaded
    0
    what part of brissy are you hiding in?


    check out the coke bottle bleed techinique I posted up, it'll easily identify any problems for you if the heads gone.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    151
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Geebung, although the vehicle is now on the sunny coast (was significantly cheaper to tow it to the in-laws place!)

    Do you have a link? A didn't find your post in a search....

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,511
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    151
    Total Downloaded
    0
    So would the indicator of head condition be visible oil in the coke bottle?

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,511
    Total Downloaded
    0
    oil or lots of air will usually give away a gone head.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    151
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Soooo.....

    Got back to the car yesterday... I replaced the offending hose, filled it back up with water and flicked it over.

    The starter sounded very whiney and it refused to start. I hooked it up to another battery as it seemed sluggish but still no luck.

    I tried the coke bottle trick but when I turned it over water spewed out around the bottle.... Does that mean excess pressure in the coolant i.e. head gasket stuffed?

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,511
    Total Downloaded
    0
    yep, thats the copression gasses coming straight past the fire rings
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    under a rock, next to a tree, at Broadmarsh
    Posts
    6,738
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Wiki subject

    How can I/We use parts of this thread and the others that deal with 300 TDi overheating problem to get the Wiki thread started?

    Is it just a matter of copy and paste?
    .
    Last edited by wrinklearthur; 9th December 2012 at 08:44 AM. Reason: missing e

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    under a rock, next to a tree, at Broadmarsh
    Posts
    6,738
    Total Downloaded
    0

    check list

    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    yep, thats the copression gasses coming straight past the fire rings
    Bad luck there Matt, I agree with Dave that the head gasket is gone.

    After the problems I had sorting the cooling system out in 'Fred', along with replacing the headgasket I would do the following.

    Check for cracks, warping of the head and if the motor was badly cooked get the top of the block checked for distortion.

    Make sure that the air bleed hose from the thermostat housing is clear by blowing through it into the expansion tank and into the radiator tank, the plastic venturi is easily cleaned out by running a small 3mm drill bit through it .

    As the Coolant is gone and needs to be refilled, I would be taking the radiator in for a rodding out and also think about doing the tropical mod as well.
    When the head gasket goes, rubbish gets circulated around and lodges inside the tubes of the radiator core, this isn't obvious at first, but on a long pull the temperature rises slowly and when you stop and run the motor the temperature drops slow as well and this is due to the fact that the baffle in the radiator tank has a bleed hole big enough that you can poke your little finger through, the tropical mod is reducing that bleed hole size down to about 3 mm.

    Check to see that the thermostat is opening by placing it in some boiling water on the stove, it should be fully open when the water nears boiling point and just as important, when it is cold make sure that the valve is closed completely and you can't see light coming past the sealing face.

    Refill with 50 - 50 mix of coolant concentrate ( Green type for 300TDi ) and water .

    If the heater is not effective, then the heater core is blocked as well, as it is a awkward job to remove and put back, the radiator repair bloke I took mine to for servicing suggested that I replace the heater core for a longer service life.
    .

Page 2 of 11 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!