Yes, we do...Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
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Yes, we do...Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
I am still looking forward to driving a T model Ford for the first time.
When I went for my Heavy Rigid Licence, I passed, but the old Volvo truck that I drove didn't, it's syncros were shot.
Who has driven a syncro box with the throwout bearing collapsed?
I had to get a FJ40 from Georgetown to Normaton in the dark after the New Years horse races, travelling along the developmental road and with the first decent storm of the wet belting down on the black soil.
The owner of the Toyota was scratchless drunk and couldn't walk let alone drive his stricken vehicle.
My old man could drive any of the 'crash' boxes with out using the clutch, he used to touch the gears very lightly with his finger tip on the gear lever until they slid together without any noise at all.
.
Jeez, not many gears to change on a T model Arthur. Only 2, unless you have a truck version with the Ruckstell 2 speed diff. I think the 2 gearbox ratios were planeteries anyway, with a pedal to operate the ratio change bands. No skill required.
Bill.
Let handbrake off which engaged the first gear then push the pedal down to get second, ---I think.Quote:
Originally Posted by wagoo
The T model truck had a massive worm and wheel backend , verrry slow with plenty of time to sort your self out.
aaahhhhh roadrangers, love them. the truckies to day get autos along wth airbag suspensions, light weight controls starting to get to be big girls blouses:wasntme:
apart from a couple of 3070's i have driven UD 8 wheeler and dog with a japanese 9 speed roadranger that was useless and a butterbox 8 wheeler and dogwith a 5 speed main box on the left of the driver and a 3 speed joey on the right with out syncro.
i would rather drive these than some of the truck syncro boxes around, except maybe Volvo
I agree ...Quote:
Originally Posted by vnx205
Funny tho ... Other than for taking off from static start >>> No one has mentioned that you can go up n down all the gears without touching the clutch
:twisted:
Cheers
Mike
:D
Quite a few Series 1,2 and 2A Landrover owners became quite proficient at that technique when the clutch bellcrank drive pins would shear off. The later diaphram pressure plates did reduce the frequency of these failures.Quote:
Originally Posted by mike 90 RR
Bill.
Not quite. One of the vehicles I learnt to drive on was a T Ford. Two forward and reverse. High is direct drive, through a multiplate oil bath clutch. Low and reverse are planetary and engaged by oil bath brake bands.Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinklearthur
The handbrake has a cam that disengages the clutch as it is pulled on. The LH pedal also disengages the clutch and when full down engages low. The centre pedal engages reverse, but note that the clutch must be disengaged, either by half depressing the LH pedal or pulling the handbrake half on. The RH pedal is the foot brake, operating on a third brake band in the gearbox. The entire gearbox and clutch works are mounted on the flywheel, which has round its periphery a row of V shaped magnets that are both the magneto, providing AC power for the ignition coils and lighting, and also act as the oil pump; The 'sump' is the flywheel housing, and oil flung up by the magnets is caught by a funnel which has an inclined pipe feeding oil to the timing case, whence, after lubricating the timing gears, it runs down the bottom plate of the crankcase, filling the troughs for each big end on the way, and back to the flywheel housing.
As a standard fitting there is no foot accelerator, all driving uses the hand throttle lever, the LH one on the steering column. The other lever is the spark timing, which needs a lot more adjustment than for most ignition systems, as the trembler coils impose a relatively long time delay on spark, so as the engine speeds up you need to advance the spark. And with hand starting, heaven help you if you fail to retard it before cranking! If you fail to advance it at speed, apart from the loss of power, you will be able to see at night, even with out the headlights, by the glow of the exhaust manifold shining through the radiator!
The ignition switch has three positions - battery, used for starting, off, and Magneto, used for normal driving, changeover after the engine is running. In theory you can start on magneto, but I have never managed it. You can also start it by turning over four compressions while holding the choke out (choke lever is at the bottom driver's side of the radiator, where you can operate it with your left hand wjhile cranking with your right), then turn the ignition to battery and slowly advance the spark.
John
Or perhaps that the diaphragm plates usually were fitted to Series 3 and these do not have the drive pins? (They have a conventional throwout fork) I know that diaphragm clutches were available for later 2a Landrovers, but I have yet to actually see one.Quote:
Originally Posted by wagoo
Mind you, most of the clutch failures I have encountered in Landrovers have been hydraulics, not drive pins, although I have had a couple of them.
John
Yes Bill
I had that happen to me in Healesville the other week.
Lucky it would start in second.