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Thread: D2 TD5 Manual Clutch/Gearbox issue

  1. #1
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    D2 TD5 Manual Clutch/Gearbox issue

    Ok I have been putting this off as I thought the world was ending yesterday. The sun came up today so time to get it sorted.

    On a recent trip all of a sudden it became very difficult to change gears in my D2 Td5 Manual. Changing up was not really a problem but still had to time it right to get it nice and smooth. Changing down was a lot more challenging and had to double clutch to get it to pop into gear. When stationary and the clutch pressed in, the gears can be selected and there does not seem to be any slipping.

    A short time later it started getting a squawking sound when the clutch pedal is pressed in and vibrates. When the clutch pedal is out I can here a slight knocking sound a bit like a big end but goes away when the clutch is pressed. I’m assuming it’s the Release bearing causing the noise.

    After driving it home some 400Km the gearbox seems to be changing up and down the gears ok now. The only issue now is when ever I change into 4th , the gears make a little grind as they mesh. The only way to get it to mesh smoothly is to get the timing just right or go straight to 5th. Could this me related to the clutch issue as it all happened at the same time or has the gearbox gone as well.

    The gearbox has to come out to sort out the clutch Squawk so will replace the clutch at the same time so I don’t have to go back later. What else should I be doing at the same time. I’m worried that if I replace the clutch and it turns out to be a gearbox issue as well the lot will have to come out again.

    Can anyone share there experience with similar issues there have had.

    This job is to big for me to attempt my self so will be looking for recommendation in Melbourne to do the job for me. I also am a bit time poor to do it. What sort of ball park price would I be expecting to have the Clutch replaced so I don’t get taken for a ride.

    Knowledge is power so I want to find out as much as I can before taking it to someone. Any information appreciated.

    PS: If anyone has an R380 gearbox for the TD5 let me know.
    Cheers, David.
    My Land Rover has made me a better Mechanic........
    D2 TD5 Manual, CDL, Detroit Rear, Truetac Front, 2" OME lift, 32" MT Tyres, ARB Bull Bar, Winch, TJM Roof Rack, Driving Lights, Dual Batteries, ARB Side Steps, Rear Draws, Uhf.

  2. #2
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    When you put your foot on the clutch and the noise goes away this sounds like a gearbox issue. When stationary, with foot off the clutch about 70% of the gearbox internals are spinning. When you push the clutch to the floor and engage a gear everything in the garbox stops turning. Under this scenario the spigot bearing now comes into it but if it was crook it would be noisiest as you are releasing the clutch as this is when it is under greatest load

    Another cause could be the clutch plate. You can eliminate this simply by taking the RPM to a bit above idle. If it goes quite it could be the clutch.

    This used to be a common problem with 60 series Landcruisers, especially if a petrol clutch plate was fitted to a diesel. I do not know if TD5's do this.
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  3. #3
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    td5 spigot bushing is renowned for causing poor shifting if in a bad way, if the noise went away and you now have 4th gear shifting probs then i would suspect the bushing has now come to bits etc. get to it asap as $$$ are climbing the more you drive it, that knocking noise could be the input bearing.. when fitting a new clutch, replace flywheel also, use genuine only. the solid flywheel conversion is simpler but can give more vibe.

    jc

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    td5 spigot bushing is renowned for causing poor shifting if in a bad way, if the noise went away and you now have 4th gear shifting probs then i would suspect the bushing has now come to bits etc. get to it asap as $$$ are climbing the more you drive it, that knocking noise could be the input bearing.. when fitting a new clutch, replace flywheel also, use genuine only. the solid flywheel conversion is simpler but can give more vibe.

    jc
    Justin is the solid flywheel a good thing
    I have read of crankshaft failures??

    Duane

  5. #5
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    yes, i would stay away from them if this is true. nothing wrong with the dual mass oe ones imo.

    jc

  6. #6
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    The noise is still there at the moment and only shifting issue is 4th. If I press the clutch to the floor it is often quiet but if I give the accelerator a jab of rev the squawking noise comes back. On reading through the forum I was suspecting the spigot bush but no one had mentioned shift issues as well.

    It's not a daily driver so it's not being driving until it's sorted.

    Thanks fot your replies.
    Cheers, David.
    My Land Rover has made me a better Mechanic........
    D2 TD5 Manual, CDL, Detroit Rear, Truetac Front, 2" OME lift, 32" MT Tyres, ARB Bull Bar, Winch, TJM Roof Rack, Driving Lights, Dual Batteries, ARB Side Steps, Rear Draws, Uhf.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Landover View Post
    The noise is still there at the moment and only shifting issue is 4th. If I press the clutch to the floor it is often quiet but if I give the accelerator a jab of rev the squawking noise comes back. On reading through the forum I was suspecting the spigot bush but no one had mentioned shift issues as well.

    It's not a daily driver so it's not being driving until it's sorted.

    Thanks fot your replies.
    David,

    In referrence to the shifting issues, these squawks are so common that mostly I tell people to put up with it UNTIL there is a change in the shifting quality, then do it ASAP.

    The squawking is caused by a dry bronze bush against the hardened steel input shaft, eventually it will fail and turn in the crank etc and on several occasions I have removed the clutch only to find the spigot bush rattling around in its hole. One trans I removed it came out sitting on the input shaft

    The effect of a failure like this means the input shaft is no longer supported, puts great strain on the input bearing lifespan but most importantly offset running and vibration etc causes a lot of wear on the synchro hub and baulk ring etc .

    The important thing too is when installing the new one, DO NOT use grease on it, you must force engine oil through it until you see it coming from the inside out. (Sit it on your palm, fill it with oil and push your thumb into it to hydraulic the oil through)

    Grease will dry out and form a coating, preventing any form of proper lube.


    JC

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by djam1 View Post
    Justin is the solid flywheel a good thing
    I have read of crankshaft failures??
    Interested to read... where have you seen this reported?

  9. #9
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    Ah yes, Pete has one, hasn't broken his crank yet though, despite being 'used'....
    I would be interested too to read more experiences with these.


    JC

  10. #10
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    I haven't managed to find a single reference to a crank failure on a car with one fitted.

    I also have zero concerns tbh that it is going to ever happen but if someone has experienced it it would be interesting to read.

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