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Well, here they are (injectors).
What a drama. :o It was a major exercise, plenty of heat from the oxy and absolute brute force to remove the injector in No.2. Twisting and levering at the same time finally got it out.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/12/188.jpg
They all look a bit grotty, is this normal ? No.2 injector is the one in pieces. The others are all partially 'unwound' from extraction. Probably twisting in one direction (clockwise) when extracting would be a better idea. :angel:
There was no copper washer on injector No.2, :( perhaps this is why it was so hard to remove ?
I'll drop you a PM Luke. Thanks.
Deano :)
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Hi Dean,
Guess you can't stop yourself rescuing Landrovers:D
Re the bottom end, check the oil pressure, if it is up to spec, bottom end is ok.
Cheers,
Terry
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Right you are Terry, I'm an unabashed LandRover devotee/tragic ;). At least I can fit in this one :)
Deano :)
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yep i got a turners head 3 years ago $908 and 4 days to get to brisbane and my front door, tracked all the way with DHL, i was over the moon as i got the head, head bolts and the head gasket.
no one has come up with the definitive time to do the bottom end in a disco around 300k you might have a "problem" i have a mechanical oil pressure gauge on mine.
it has been mentioned before in this thread but get your self an engine monitor it WILL save you a lot of grief and money if something unexpected goes and you dont catch it in time!!
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Hey all, I've done my head gasket in the same way (compression into water jacket) on Christmas day as well.
We pulled the head off and it's all ok bar the 6 thou (feeler gauge) concave in the head.
I have no option to wait for a new replacement head like you are all recommending, but I can machine it myself this arvo. I've machined heads before no problem, but never a Land Rover one. I was unaware of the issue of head material being 'too soft'.
I have arranged a new head gasket (multi thickness/shim type) and VRS kit, and a belated low coolant sensor. The head bolts are fine(?) to reuse, it's never been off.
My questions to you all are:
What is the maximum permissible amount of material that can be removed?
What surface finish is required? Ie: feed rate for machining. I understand some setups require smooth, others with a slight 'gramaphone' finish.
By the way, '95 300tdi D1, 365K, busted head gasket is a '3 hole' thickness. Everything else pretty good running order.
Cheers everyone for the participation in this thread, I'm lucky to have stumbled across it.:thumbup:
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i ran a head with a 10thou skim for a year or so whilst i built from the ground up a new engine
Used the MLS gasket, +10%on the head bolt tensions and it worked.
When pushed hard water temps ran to 125 easily enough but came back to 110 in the cruise
Bought me some time but far from ideal
When i put the new engine in i pulled the head off the old, seems it was blowing through all four pots to the water jacket
So skim and run it but keep a close eye on temp and water level and future plan to do it properly later?
Steve
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Valves may need to be recessed after machining head to avoid contact with pistons. I had 7 thou removed from my 300TDi head which was concave between 2 and 3 cylinders, refitted with Composite gasket. Same problem shortly after, same deformation in same spot, did not machine again, but fitted steel laminated gasket and no problems since, touch wood, Regards Frank.
