Thread: Electronic Rust Prevention System, do they work?

I have looked into it for the Defender but didn't think it was totally fit and forget so I didn't bother which is a shame as the roads are covered in rocksalt for most of the winter. There is some links in this post:

Defender2 - View topic - Electronic Rust Protection

There is one on the sons Puma,doesn't appear to help at all,as far as we can determine

Wouldn't recommend one.

This has been discussed at length on this forum. Do a search.
The theory is sound and cathodic protection systems are used on many structures.

I would recommend, if you were to install one of these systems, install a passive or galvanic system. You can do this by attaching an anode of zinc to the chassis. Of course, for the system to work, you would have to bury your vehicle or immerse it in water.

If you want to spend money, buy an impressed system. This would involve hooking a buried or immersed anode up to the battery or control system and, of course, for the system to work, you would have to bury your vehicle or immerse it in water.

You will not get a cathodic protection system that will work if you intend to drive the vehicle around.

If you are really that concerned about chassis corrosion, the best thing you could do would be to keep the chassis clean. You may also consider galvanising the chassis.

Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

If you are really that concerned about chassis corrosion, the best thing you could do would be to keep the chassis clean. You may also consider galvanising the chassis.

I was more concerned about body panels?

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The USA has stronger consumer protection laws than Australia and electronic rust devices are banned from there as their claims are deemed fraudulent as they cannot produce tested data to support their claims. Here is a link to a well known physicist on the subject:
Car Rust and How to Stop It (Dr Karl Homework: ABC Science)

Not at all worth it I'm afraid. I'm also originally from Scotland where as stated we salt the roads and these rust-proofers are not effective.

In my experience, and I've always had old ****ty cars that are prone to the cancer the very best way you'll stop them from rusting out is to get the car on a hoist and spend at least a whole morning with a steam cleaner and degreaser. Get the underneath of the car immaculate, you don't have to bother with the drivetrain or anything, just the chassis and body. The most important parts are at the top of the inner wings where they meet the firewall and at the front bottom of your rear inner arches.

Once it's clean you can use stuff called Waxoyl, it's a waxy sprayable product that's very similar to Denso grease and tape as used in the marine industry, it's a petroleum based waxy jelly that once either sprayed on or worked in by hand forms an air and moisture proof skin over your surface.

If you want to get really serious you can drill into your chassis rails and pillars and fill them with it too just use grommets where you drill and put them in while it's wet.

It's clear and can be painted over if needed and if applied well then it doesn't look at all unlike the factory corrosion protection.

As for the outside just the obvious, keep the panels and the paint surface clean and smooth with a decent coating of a good Carnuba wax and all will be good.

As Mick_Marsh said, the theory is sound and yes it does work, I have installed plenty and they all work perfectly, on Shell and tube condensers, and yes, totally imersed in water, all I have seen on vehicles do squat