Yep! It's next on the gearbox rebuild list.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/01/363.jpg
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Yep! It's next on the gearbox rebuild list.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/01/363.jpg
specs? future plans? looked like some track tyres and some neg camber...., does it get a bit of track time?
nice:cool:
jc
I could start a new thread on the specs ... ;)
The important stuff:
- L20B engine with 76 degree works cam and twin 45 DCOE webers
 - close ratio 260Z gearbox
 - 240K struts with adjustable spring bases
 - Koni shocks
 - Discs all 'round
 
Yes it has a set of race radials on it in the photo. I built it for hillclimbs but I haven't raced regularly for about 8 years. At one stage I held the lap record for the class and Mt Cotton hillclimb circuit and was QLD and Aus class champion ... then kids and work got in the way.
I have had a play at some motorkhanas recently but it needs a bigger radiator to cope with the high engine speed and low car speed of a motorkhana. So at the moment it is having a rest while I do a few other projects.
I've promised my kids I'd build them something to compete in (eldest is 12) so that is my next little task ... Hopefully the Disco will behave itself now so I can get started on their car.
Thanks Paul, the racing heritage of the humble Datsun is quite surprising when you look into it, many people just have no idea at all how succesful they were/ are!
JC
Dave, what are the differences in life and use/feel between the iron and standard bronze baulk rings ?
I wanted to thank everyone for the post's as I'm approaching a R380 rebuild very soon. My Defender 1997 TDI 300 110 is just about to turn over 300000km. It still shifts well and has no significant noises, but does do quite a bit of towing.
Driving with mechanical sympathy really does help in these situations. Smooth gear changes, and higher revs (lower gear), really reduces the forces internally.
I think the main point to take away from all this, is the early bearing replacement!
When overhauling the R380, are there any difficult aspects of the assembly which can catch newbies out? I’m quite interested in doing it myself, but I really don’t want to learn the hard way!
Thank again!
There is nothing really difficult about working on the R380 provided you don't try to rush it. In fact compared to other gearboxes I have rebuilt, this one was quite easy.
You will need a good puller and/or press to remove and replace the bearings. The RAVE CD has lots of tips for removing and replacing bearings and the sequence for disassembly and assembly.
I think the most useful thing that I did during the rebuild is taking photos. I laid everything out carefully to ensure that it all went back together the way it came apart but it was good to have the photos for the times I questioned myself. This was particularly true for the shifter shaft assembly.
Good luck with your rebuild.
I have returned from a NT Camel Cull. At Horsham on way up 5 th gear became slightly noisy. Used 4th for 5,000 k. Upon dismantling, whloe gearbox needs a rebuild as some small bits went through gear sets. My 130 has been serviced well and not abused. The lower gearing i think places a lot of torque on the gears and 5 th particularly. I have lost faith in Land Rovers as i need a vehicle that does not have transmission problems. The Rover drive may be a solution and a bigger oil capacity mod could be a help.
David
Hi David,
The lower gearing in the Defender is in the transfer case, and as such makes no difference to the torque the gear box sees, although the higher GVM may.
The Rover Drive again is down stream of the gear box, and depending on it's use may make the problem better (using over drive 4th) or worse (using over drive 5th).
The enlarged sump is again a transfer case thing and won't affect the gear box.
An oil cooler will make a difference, see Ricks comment in post 42.
Ashcroft now do heavy duty 5th gear setup, but it's only available on gearboxes rebuilt by them.
Ashcroft Transmissions - R 380
Tony