Thread: 300 Tdi Injector Clamp Nut Tension

I've just sheered off my bolt! Can anyone give me some tips on how to remove the stud? It has sheeted off just below the bottom of the thread so there is no thread left but there is still a bit of stud protruding... Help!!

left hand drill bits and rigid stud extractors or easy outs.

use a flat face burr to level off the remainder of the stud, use a self centering center punch to locate the center and have at it.

if you need to drill it oversize and run a helicoil into it.

a note on Torque wrenches, if you have the type where you rotate the handle to increase or decrease the force amount, you should always back it right off before putting it away in your tool box...

The protruding neck of the stud is ripe for a cut through the middle. I used a dremel with cutting disk and put a nice deep slit down the middle and then used a wide flat screw driver, tap it in with a hammer and screw it out. If its seized you can wedge a flat bit in there and use an impact driver.



If that fails you can cut it flush and EZ-out

my bad, I thought the stud had snapped off below the block threads.

start out by cutting it with the dremel or a jewelers saw then have at it with the impact driver.

-steel stud into alloy housing I almost always reach for the old "nut + MIG" trick


-Just last night I was helping out a friend (who pulls the best coffee in town and NEEDS to be looked after).
-80 series cruiser held together with rust and spray paint
-Reversing down drive, started to accelerate and voila lost all drive.
-Calls me, I turn up with the works in the tray (and a roadie) expecting badness (her words on the phone were "the wheel has fallen off")
-turns out all 6 (yes 6) M8 drive flange studs plus the two dowels have failed, PS drive shaft has ejected and diff oil bleeding everywhere.
-So stuffed paper down the stub axle, cleaned up the oil so some poor unsuspecting landy wouldn't get blamed for it, locked the hubs engaged 4wd and drove to the shed.

-after strip down with the hub on the bench, all 6 studs have sheared off, real ugly, like below the flange height - ouch.
-Wheel bearings were appropriately adjusted (if anything a little tight).
-Axle housing eyeballs straight and no shaft issues revealed with the "eye-o-meter".
-My guess is the boofhead parts swappers who last serviced it, and are always in a rush rattled the nuts on a little over the recommended torque and 15 years of fatigue did the rest.

-Anyway, the "nut + MIG" trick worked for 5 of them, chased the threads, new studs from the "tojo scrapper bin" and happy days.

-the mongrel 6th was deep, probably shouldnt have, but tried a weld, and managed to weld the busted stud to the nut (good) but also the hub (bad) - and - well - for now my favourite barista is driving with diminished torque application. Will fix it or alternatively find a new hub...




Steve

ps this is an unashamed red induced story that has little if any relevance to the current issue other than in a completely different situation my go-to technique has a 16.67% chance of failure.

biggest hassle with the nut and mig trick...

having the mig welder

for studs that are snapped in too deep for normal nut + mig and im not confident on drilling them out (usually only if its too angled off to get the drill or the flat head burr to get it started) I use this version

1. get a bit of pipe that fits in the stud hole, cut it to depth+1cmish
2. line it with some plastic straw at the end your going to insert into the hole to weld
3. coat the inside of the pipe with some spatter stop or tip dip.
4. remove the bit of straw and insert the tube dry end first into the stud hole
5. extend the wire out of the tip
6. cut a bit of heatshink to go over the wire and the tip of the mig, shrink it onto the tip, make sure it doesnt grab the wire
7. insert the heat shrunk wire into tube
8, touch it down, pull it back a little, make sure its centered and have at it,

It can help to shape the tube to the left over face of the stud by use of the knock ometer.

pull the tube gently with a pair of vice grips and if it holds turn it and it should come out.

I've only ever gone down to M8 size holes that have snapped less than 2cm down

Dave you sure know how to make a half cut guy seem incompetent!

"I've only ever gone down to M8 size holes that have snapped less than 2cm down"

These were M8x1.25 and the dud was maybe 8mm below deck height... sheared end was at 45 degree angle and after snapping off enough helicoils deep in some important part I really avoid them now.

I like your tube idea... what sucks is I have a heap of different diameter copper and bronze bundy pipe / bushing / etc which could have been used as a shield to the hub NOW THAT YOU MENTION THE IDEA... would not even need spatter spray with copper eh. cut a short 8mm length, drop it on the stud weld it in hot, drop nut over the top and finish the weld.

GRRRRRR I love that idea but hate it that it is 24 hours late!

When I get the desire or time or inclination or the job list is shorter Ill swing the rusty old POS back into the shed, strip the hub back down, weld it out, machine it flush, then template, drill and re-tap. Just didnt have the energy last night. Or Ill just be a parts-swapping-donkey and pick up a hub and fit that?????

S