Thread: Td5 Roational 'rattly' noise

Originally Posted by justinc

Hi Deano,

I urge you to buy a new one even though used ones are available, as you may encounter this issue again with a second hand one, in the end costing you about the same for a new one ...


JC

Right you are Justin. Whilst I might whinge about the cost of a new genuine/OEM replacement I'd whinge even more if I had to do the job twice. So new bits it is............. 'Do it once, do it right',............... but bloody hell, if I get out of this for under $1K I'll be doing well.

The old girls starting to become a bit expensive (and the D2a too ). Bought it new (the Disco ) in 2004 as an aniversary present for SWMBO. Apart from an inhibitor switch every 2 years has cost bugger all to maintain.

In the last two years transmission, fuel pump, inhibitor switch (again), fuel pressure regulator and now the harmonic balancer. The first 7 years, apart from normal service items, has cost less than $500 per year on average, not bad for a 250K Km vehicle that has done a fair bit of outback touring / 4WD'ing. The last two years though, all on road, has cost an average of $5000 per year . I wonder what's next ?

The funny part is, a couple of yaers ago had a look at a D3 to upgrade and decided its off road capability was **** poor without electronics and the D4 was a POS, so stayed with the D2a.

On a lighter note, rubber steel harmonic balancer failure takes me back to '70's Holdens. Everything old is new again.

Deano

I had a second hand unit do this to me

I found this link helpfull when doing the nut up...
Torque Wrench extensions
I had a socket into a breaker bar with a peice of exhuast pipe over the end.
In the end of the exhuast pipe I had a 300mm shifter handle first.
I then adjusted the opening to take the tourque wrench.
A few marks with texta to keep the lengths and out with the tape and calculator.
Keeping all lined up so the angle was right my wrench setting was @140Nm.
This link may help too..http://www.discovery2.co.uk/CrankPulley.html

Originally Posted by alien

I had a second hand unit do this to me

I found this link helpfull when doing the nut up...
Torque Wrench extensions
I had a socket into a breaker bar with a peice of exhuast pipe over the end.
In the end of the exhuast pipe I had a 300mm shifter handle first.
I then adjusted the opening to take the tourque wrench.
A few marks with texta to keep the lengths and out with the tape and calculator.
Keeping all lined up so the angle was right my wrench setting was @140Nm.
This link may help too..http://www.discovery2.co.uk/CrankPulley.html

...Kyle, the thinking mans Landie owner , good stuff mate!!


JC

Thanks Kyle, good links.

Once upon a time, when I was a poor student and couldnt afford a tension wrench I used a spring balance and a suitable extension bar. Worked well, I got the idea from LR's swivel pin housing adjustment for my old SIIa. Though I reckon 350 ft lbs might be a bit impractical using this method.

Deano

I've got all the parts I reckon I'll need, new pulley/damper (at vast expense), seal and new bolt and have made up a jig to hold the new pulley when tightening, very similiar to www.discovery2.co.uk / Crankshaft pulley* / TV damper replacement but I am unable to use it on the old pulley as two of the 3 lugs are broken off.

I figure I'll need to use the old ' socket bar jagged on chassis rail and starter motor trick' to undo the retaining bolt so I need to stop the motor from starting but can't find the fuel relay , it's not under the seat or in the under dash fuse box and I really don't want the motor to start whilst cranking the bolt loose .

Any clues, all contributions gratefully accepted.

Deano

Pull the plug from the front of the injector loom.... it wont start then!

Deano, I would Highly doubt you will get a result using the cranking method. We replaced one yesterday,luckily only delaminated not broken like yours, had a 3 foot pipe on a socket bar, and a 4 foot length of flat bar drilled to bolt 2 of the pulley bolts through. 2 people, lots of grunting.

They are very tight

I have removed a broken one in the past, ended up welding bolts onto the flat bar to jam in to the remains of the centre section, and wedged it hard against the balancer with a block of wood...it was a radiator out and major mission.

JC

Well it must be my lucky day.

At the risk of sounding extremely foolish and without further research, the 'front' of the injector loom wasn't readily identifiable to me a Td5 novice, so instead I started pulling relays in the under bonnet fuse/relay box and found that removing R9 did the trick in stopping the engine firing.

What was even better was jagging the socket on the passenger side chassis rail (I went over this a dozen times in my head to make sure it was the 'right' way) and after the fourth hit of the starter there was an almighty 'CRACK', which frightened the absolute living daylights out of me and the bolt loosened.
note. a very good idea to put a piece of ply between the radiator and the pulley as the socket/bar drove forward and would have damaged the radiator otherwise.

I'm now waiting for a mate to finish work to give me a hand with the doing up of the pulley/damper bolt.

I'll post some pics when it's all over.

Deano