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Thread: d2 rear tailshaft conversion

  1. #1
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    d2 rear tailshaft conversion

    good day all,
    doing the tailshaft conversion and hit a snag so want so advice before proceeding.
    once i have got to this stage,




    after having to do this (notice the cuts?)


    my replacement tailshaft is 900mm almost closed,
    if i put the new flange on with the supplied spacer i do not have enough threads on the bolt to secure the flange, stripped one bolt?. but also the distance is too long for the tailshaft.
    without the spacer the distance is nigh on 900mm, one would assume just put it together without the spacer? all write ups i have read say too use the spacer.

    so would the learned gathered install without the spacer?

    cheers

  2. #2
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    Hi Liam, I have another flange to get you out of trouble to revert back until you solve your problem.



    Erich

  3. #3
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    I had mine done when they did the Ashcroft ATB and Craft had a flange and bolt. I mentioned there may be a need for a spacer and I had dimensions from somewhere or other. They just made a spacer to suit the job and pinion since they rebuilt the whoole thing and lapped it while it was apart.

    Only cost me $280- for the whole job by memory. Might be an option to take it down there and have it done. I'm just using a D1/RRC shaft.

  4. #4
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    Thanks erich, should be ok.

    I will probably just put together without the spacer, physically it won't fit anyway. The write up I was reading was a late d1 conversion, the pinion had a threaded shaft coming off it and used a nut to secure instead of bolt which I have.

    Cheers

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yorkie View Post




    my replacement tailshaft is 900mm almost closed,
    if i put the new flange on with the supplied spacer i do not have enough threads on the bolt to secure the flange, stripped one bolt?. but also the distance is too long for the tailshaft.
    without the spacer the distance is nigh on 900mm, one would assume just put it together without the spacer? all write ups i have read say too use the spacer.

    so would the learned gathered install without the spacer?

    cheers
    Hey Liam, for the 4bolt flange as far as I know there are 2 types. The old type had a short flange and also ran a spacer ring. The newer type have the flange the correct length as 1 piece. Looking at the pic above, it looks like your 4 bolt flange is correct and I'm guessing it is sitting on top of a spacer ring. If thats the case, you wont need the spacer ring. You can also see it in the differences in the shield heights from the table.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  6. #6
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    The threaded shaft is the end of the pinion. Never put 2 and 2 together on that one, that the D2 has a bolt and no large thread sticking out.

  7. #7
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    Bingo! Cheers Simon, also followed you and Lokkas tip on using the grinder on the centre pin, bloody tight but got there in the end.
    So tomorrow it all goes back together then I start panel beating!.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yorkie View Post
    Bingo! Cheers Simon, also followed you and Lokkas tip on using the grinder on the centre pin, bloody tight but got there in the end.
    So tomorrow it all goes back together then I start panel beating!.
    I think even with a factory puller they'd be a hard job to get out. The grinder makes life much easier.

    Oh was that your Disco with the rock stuck in it!
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slunnie View Post
    I think even with a factory puller they'd be a hard job to get out. The grinder makes life much easier.

    Oh was that your Disco with the rock stuck in it!
    Maybe

    The panel pushed back in but inside the wheel arch looks interesting, tempted to chop down the metal behind the guard...

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