Converting D1 to oil hubs - of course it's not easy!

remove the drive flange, drill in the 2 holes about 90 degrees apart tap them then use a grub screw with some 567 or a pan head bolt with a copper washer to seal them up, put the flange back on

to fill put one hole at 3/9 oclock and fill with the one thats at 12 oclock till oil comes out the next one

to check put the holes at 10/2 and slowly turn till the 3/9 position and oil creeps up the thread.

to drain jack up the wheel, turn till its at 6 oclock and then lower it, then jack up the other side

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

yep, but it takes time to get there, if you get contamination you then have to strip everything to get the mess out.

IT also means that checking the bearings becomes a case of lift the wheel up, check the rim rock and sample the oil, if the oils clean in the bearings, clean in the swivs and clean in the diff you're good all round.

I am personally a fan of the seal thats in the axle housing between the diff housing and the swivel mount I leave that one in there and remove the rest.

The other advantage to drilling the drive flanges is you dont have to strip the axle out to get out the seal to convert to oil fed bearings.

for judo,

with fastidious maintenance roller bearings will go a lot further than 500K Km especially in low speed vehicles like series landrovers that have over engineered bearing setups for their weights. (have a look at a 1T kingswood's wheel bearings which has about the same GVM)

For comparison Shell bearings in some engines go past 500K Km

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ok got it now, smart move

Dave, just making sure I get this right, remove all internal seals? The half shaft ones don't fit due to larger diameter axles. And do you remove the ones in the spindle??? I hope so as the ones that came in my kit are to small on the ID. I have aftermarket flanges so presume these keep all the oil in.

I did this on a toy conversion but was a few years ago and can't remember.:(
Buy the way I am putting my swivels back together today so need an answer, or I could just clean the shed whilst I wait.:)

Clean & empty the shed.... lash out on some decent shelves, small boxes, large stick-on labels and marker pen.

- You'll be amazed at what you find buried in there. :angel:

nah, think I'll just turn the stereo up and crack open a cold one (after 12 of course:angel:)
need to get front end back together so I can move car to make way for hoist, then the shed gets a tidy up!
Anyway, fairly sure I don't need the spindle to stub axle seal.

The only seals you need to keep are,
paper gasket on the lower swivel bearing retainer,
RTC3511 hub seal,
swivel ball seal,
Drive flange seal, paper gasket or sealant

Thought so, well I've come to a stand still, it looks like in 'the great Isuzu engine conversion of 2013', my front hubs in a cleaning frenzy have made it into the skip bin and a never to be seen again. :(
So now I need to chase some of these up, bugger (that's being polite):mad:

Vern, I'm not sure if all hubs are the same, but if you just mean the paper gasket that seals the drive flange to hub, then just use some silicone/gasket maker. I've given up sourcing those gaskets.

I've since taken these photos if it helps:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...brication.html

Nah I meant the seal that goes in behind the needle roller bearing, although mine doesn't have this (bearing) it has a brass bush.

I thought the gasket seemed a bit simple. ;)

The one behind the needle roller bearing will join the swivel and hub compartments. Are you joining the diff oil as well? I like the idea of having diff oil separate, but each to their own.