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Thread: Converting D1 to oil hubs - of course it's not easy!

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    Judo's Avatar
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    Converting D1 to oil hubs - of course it's not easy!

    I decided converting to oil hubs is the way of the future, so tonight I took the rear wheel off, undid the spindle bolts, starting pulling out the spindle/axle and oil comes pouring out everywhere!

    Good news I thought, my hubs appear to be already oil fed - not that they always have been!

    Then the problems started.... I was annoyed at all the chisel marks on the hub nuts. The oil was not clean. The axle appeared "wet". Wet drops everywhere. Water?? Maybe - drove a lot of deep water lately, thus deciding to get onto this job. At the very least a grease/oil mix. The 2 hub nuts were somehow fused together with the washer, so they took a bit of cursing to get them off. Lifted the hub off, but the inner bearing remained in place.......I mean it's not going anywhere. Stuck onto the stub axle... At least the grease seal behind the inner bearing was being a good little oil seal!

    The stub axle isn't exactly clean either. Various marks all down it. SO, short term plan is to clean it up and put it all back together so I can get about while I plan the long term fix, which is? That's where you come in!!

    Any suggestions for getting the bearing off the stub axle?
    Or should I just make life easier and buy a new stub axle and bearing?
    Dare I check the other 3 wheels?

    All 4 wheel bearings are only about 10,000kms old. They were replaced because one of the front and one of the back exploded within a few weeks of each other. Wheel bearings are not impressing me!

    Looking for suggestions, but also had to vent my wheel bearing anger.
    Thanks for listening.
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

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    to remove the bearing race you need a good chisel and a heavy hammer.

    with the chisel squarely applied to the bearing face of the race give it a belt move the chisel 5mm to the left and do it again 10mm to the right (5mm right of the start point), Rinse and repeat all the way around the shell if your lucky and you're hitting it hard enough the shell will come off before you get more than halfway around.


    if theres no major lipping of the stub axle speedy sleeve the seal race add new bearings and you're away. If youve got some pitting on the stub you can get away with turning the stub axle around as they are symetrical.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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    Drain the duffs and check the oil
    You said you did water crossing,so the diffs may full of water.
    It dousnt take long to lose a wheel bearing after a dunking, check them all
    Safe Travels
    harry

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    slug_burner is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    Good luck with the chisel. I must be puny because I could not make any headway until I got the angle grinder out and went through most of the race.

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    I suppose you don't want to hear my wheel bearings are well over 225,000km old now

    Timken, Timken and Tinken are good when it comes to taper roller wheel bearings for Land Rovers.

    Of course if you drive Japanese NTN are very, very good too, the ones in our Patrol are 405,000km young

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    Quote Originally Posted by slug_burner View Post
    Good luck with the chisel. I must be puny because I could not make any headway until I got the angle grinder out and went through most of the race.
    That's how i've done them too, and I'm not puny

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    Quote Originally Posted by slug_burner View Post
    Good luck with the chisel. I must be puny because I could not make any headway until I got the angle grinder out and went through most of the race.
    GABH.

    If Thor is not coming to you for pointers you are not hitting it hard enough.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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    Judo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry View Post
    Drain the duffs and check the oil
    You said you did water crossing,so the diffs may full of water.
    It dousnt take long to lose a wheel bearing after a dunking, check them all
    Drained. In good time (a few weeks?), I will check the rest and convert to oil.

    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    I suppose you don't want to hear my wheel bearings are well over 225,000km old now

    Timken, Timken and Tinken are good when it comes to taper roller wheel bearings for Land Rovers.

    Of course if you drive Japanese NTN are very, very good too, the ones in our Patrol are 405,000km young
    You're not helping!!!

    Except for the Timken bit. Thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    GABH.

    If Thor is not coming to you for pointers you are not hitting it hard enough.
    When I turn sideways I disappear. I may need to hire some goons muscle.


    Just thinking about this... Should I even bother removing it? There is already oil getting to the bearings and no oil is leaking outside of the hub. Seems remarkably close to my goal without changing any seals.
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

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    Yep, you should.

    If I'm lazy I use my Air chisel with a specially ground and hardend point, takes about 3 fills of the tank and I havent had one last past 5.

    of course that doesnt instill fear into the machine of what might happen to it if it doesnt stop fighting.


    I can show you a set of 500K Km bearings if dad still has them if you want.

    But just think about the diff bearings, how often do people change the wheel bearings compared to those?
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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    just my opinion,
    been through the oil filled and non,
    i think it better to leave the bearings as designed by lr, greased, and keep the oil in the diffs and one shot in the swivels

    the risk of cross contamination is increased when you allow the diff oil to go through everything, not only from contamination in the diff, but from ingress of water in the bearings going into the diffs.
    but the best thing also is to regrease wheel bearings and change diff oils and swivels after any dunking,

    how do i know?
    ask the racq tow truck driver that brought me home from beaudesert.

    had been crossing salt water creeks a fewtimes and got home, changed the diff oils, not the bearings, drove the v8 a month or so later and stuffed a bearing - my fault.
    it had oil filled bearings also.
    Safe Travels
    harry

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