Air Con woe 300tdi (post PAS pump replace)

**sandman** · 19th February 2013, 07:50 PM

Hi All,
I posted this in the thread about my car, but i think I've buried my own thread by blabbering on in it too much....

because i'm lazy, ctrlC/ctrlV:
Background:
when PAS pump was on it's way out, the air con belt self destructed and took the connector for the clutch coil with it. I tried a couple of time salvaging what was left to make a connection, but no joy, so figured needed new coil.

Today:
New (2nd hand) compressor arrived this morning, all excited, i pulled it apart, extracted the clutch coil, put mine back together with new clutch coil, wired it up, and still no cold air.

I'm missing something somewhere. Here's my guesses:
1 - a small leak somewhere and i've lost my 134a. (was undriven for a few months after PAS issue)
2 - there was a 'trick' to the OEM connector that i didn't know about, and i shouldn't have ditched it.
3- i should take it to a mechanic, and stop breaking everything i touch. (what the lady reckons)

Any ideas welcome. including 'take it to a mechanic'

Sandy.

**Blknight.aus** · 19th February 2013, 08:01 PM

No tricks in the connector, Check the fuses, find the pressure switch and bypass it, if it kicks in you're out of gas.

I know how to find it but right now am having a brain fart on its location and its drizzling outside.

**scarry** · 19th February 2013, 08:12 PM

OK,couple of pointers,but i can't remember where anything is under a TDi bonnet.

Find a schrader valve,similar to a tyre valve,on the A/C pipe somewhere and push in the core quickly,carefully, and see if there is any pressure in it.No pressure,no gas.

Also see if the clutch clicks as someone turns on the A/C inside.No click and you have either an electrical problem or as Dave has said,the pressure switch may have an open circuit so it is holding out the power going to the clutch.Or a blown fuse.

Or maybe have an auto air guy have a look.

Good luck.

**Blknight.aus** · 19th February 2013, 08:24 PM

I advise against pressing the schreader valves.
you may also find that the clutch is open circuit, check it for continuity as part of checking the fuses.

if its open circuit, take the drive plate off, take the pulley off and theres a small panel in the winding thats got either a diode or resistor or thermal fuse in it solder in a replacement (or use a bit of wire) and see if that sorts it.

**scarry** · 19th February 2013, 08:55 PM

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

I advise against pressing the schreader valves.
you may also find that the clutch is open circuit, check it for continuity as part of checking the fuses.

if its open circuit, take the drive plate off, take the pulley off and theres a small panel in the winding thats got either a diode or resistor or thermal fuse in it solder in a replacement (or use a bit of wire) and see if that sorts it.

Dunno,i would check the schrader,but thats just me.....

Don't want to melt any wiring or blow something up,we all know what fault currents can do.......

**Blknight.aus** · 19th February 2013, 10:50 PM

I've had to do a couple of regasses because someone thought that was a good idea only to have the valves no reseat and the problem be something else entirely

not a lot of fault current in something thats got a 10a fuse delivering its power on a 12v circuit.

**sandman** · 19th February 2013, 11:43 PM

you guys are the best.

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