Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 16 of 16

Thread: Need some advice re D2TD5 alternator removal

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    On the road.
    Posts
    1,946
    Total Downloaded
    0
    yeay.
    just get a new loom, some say the new ones have been fixed to stop the oil progress.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Brissy! No flannos here!
    Posts
    8,814
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Check the now closed Wiki section.
    I posted details when I did this a few weeks ago without removing the viscous coupling.

    Cheers
    Ralph

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Denmark WA
    Posts
    670
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Post Loom replacement

    Just replacing my second injector loom... It doesn't look like mine was any kind of upgrade. As far as the engine loom goes, just clean out the plugs, inc the red one to the computer in the battery box. You might need clean again later if more oil weeps into the computer plug. You'll also find the seals on the plugs swell from exposure to contact cleaner and solvent! Hook em out prior to cleaning the plugs. If they are already sprayed, let them air for a while- mine shrank back ok oops!
    There are some posts on the net suggesting that filling the inside of the injector loom main plug rear with sensor safe silicon prior to installation may prevent a repeat, google is ur friend...

    Cheers,

    Dave
    1974 Military Lightweight Landy --- Some dementia at 50 years old
    2000 Disco series 2 now sadly moved on!
    No5 Trailer joined the fold... Awaiting graduation to road licensed!
    2021 Mazda BT50 or is that DMax?

  4. #14
    bluey017 Guest

    altinator replacement in td5

    My experience with the altinator was to remove the batery and the ecu aswell as the batery box remove the intercooler hose then u can remove the belt tensioner,undo the oil pipes for the vacume pump and the top mounting bolt and u need a tork drive to remove the mounting blot un do the power wire from the altinator and remove the plug from the back then with some manouvering of water pipes u can get the altinater out with out removing the fan

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    14,152
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks all. I did all the suggestions but it was still a female dog.
    I don't know how you could get it out with both the fan on and the water hose ( to the fuel cooler?)in place without pulling the vacuum pump off first.

    I removed the battery tray, EGR pipe, intercooler hose,etc etc . the only thing in the way was the water hose and I didn't want to drop all the water on the floor.

    I had to cut the oil drain from the vacuum pump to get it off because the clips were inaccessable to me anyway. The alternator /pump interface was full of oil and the alternator looks like it has been swimming in oil.

    Maybe the EU3 is a little different in layout to EU2.

    I had to get the VC off anyway as I plan to replace the radiator and hoses.

    There is about 3MM of crud oil all over the block so I will have to clean that off somehow.


    Other than the loom, the oil leaks, and the alternator the engine seems good with virtually no carbon buildup in the EGR pipe or the butterfly on the inlet manifold. Maybe it's blanked .LOL
    The hose from the intercooler was a bit oily but no big deal.
    Ah I am learning diesel fast.
    the turbo seems quiet and the crank pulley seems tight.

    Regards Philip A

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Brunswick, Victoria
    Posts
    3,778
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I'd add fuel cooler o-ring leak to the repair list if you disturbed the front hose. The o-rings harden with age and leaks quickly follow work on the cooling system.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!