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Thread: Installing Liners

  1. #1
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    Installing Liners

    The short of it is I have a 1954 Landy block IOE type in at the rebuilders to get relined. I have a set of original 1954 liners from the UK but he cant install them because of the top profile.
    He wants me to obtain or make an adaptor that he can press on.
    I have an idea of a tube inside the liner with lots of short wire pieces silver soldered to the outside to match the profile. Much like those profile gauges with sliding wires one can buy.
    Would this work?
    Any other ideas?

    Didiman


  2. #2
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    Press block, cylinder liner *

    Essential for fitting liners to sloping head engines.

    Models
    1948-49 '60'
    1948-51 L-R
    Part No. 262863
    1952-58 L-R 2 litre
    1954-59 '60'
    Part No. 262864
    1948-54 '75'
    Part No. 262865
    1954-59 '90'
    1955 onwards Car, except '80'
    3 Litre
    Part No. 246650
    2007 Discovery 3 SE7 TDV6 2.7
    2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7 TDCi

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  3. #3
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    Thanks. Ive got that pic too but its finding the tool thats the problem. Might be difficult to make.

  4. #4
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    easy to make.....

    lathe some round stock down to the ID of the liner- a clearance tolerance of a few thou lathe the head down a fair bit more This is your guide post(the next bit slides onto this so aim for the OD that fits its ID)

    Lathe some pipe stock down to the same OD as the sleeve you wish to install - 5 thou This is your driver

    to get the angle.....

    Remove one of the liners ,cut the top 3/4 off and then cut a slit down the side Install this at the bottom of the bore (this is your alignment shimming collar)

    slide the guide post in place and align the bottom into the shimming collar you just put in slide The driver down , Take an observed guess at the angle then cut and clean the face.

    Remove the lot, bearing blue the face of a liner in an adjacent pot, Install all the tooling again in the blued liner, observe the face of the driver for even bluing and adjust as required.

    remove the guide post and lathe the top end down enough to allow the driver to press the sleeve all the way into the bore (typically 1/4 of the height of the top sleeve mount is enough)

    When using this to install your new liner install the alignment collar in the bottom so that the top of the collar is about halfway up the lower sleeve mount in the block. slide the guide post into place and wedge it with a couple of strips of shimming matrial inside the alignment collar. Slide the new sleeve in place and drive it home with the driver.

    Once it has started to move past the top of the bottom sleeve mount remove the alignment collar and then continue to drive it home.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


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  5. #5
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    Dave, these liners dont have a flat face. See the pic. One would have to have the adaptor to match the curves or the uneven pressure on the liner may break it.
    There is no liner in there to use either. Its dry and has to be bored to suit.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 123rover50 View Post
    Dave, these liners dont have a flat face. See the pic. One would have to have the adaptor to match the curves or the uneven pressure on the liner may break it.
    There is no liner in there to use either. Its dry and has to be bored to suit.
    My bad missed a step in my haste to write it up for you, Relevent section in blue below missing step in red


    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    slide the guide post in place and align the bottom into the shimming collar you just put in slide The driver down , Take an observed guess at the angle then cut and clean the face.

    Remove the lot, bearing blue the face of a liner in an adjacent pot,Install all the tooling again in the blued linerobserve the face of the driver for even bluing and adjust as required.
    Theres also a couple of obvious omissions in there but if you're at the stage of doing liners in an engine you should be able to spot the shortfalls of the writing and run with the intent.

    (no, its not my best set of instructions ever so no, I wont be offended if they dont make complete sense and you need them rewritten)

    And I've just re-read your post, you get it easy.

    when it comes to the stages of machining.....

    Machine an aligning plate that is the ID of the lower liner support, give it a lick with some sand paper (you want it not quite press fit, it should sit there with a coating of light oil/coolant as adhesive) then bore the center to make a post hole for the guide post
    machine your guide post to the ID-5 thou of the liners you have then cut the step to support the driver and a post for the lower aligner
    Machine the OD of the driver to id-5 thou of the liner supports
    stand the driver on its end, drop the guide post in then drop the liner over the guide post, wrap it tightly in cardboard then trace out the face of the liner.
    remove the liner and the cardboard, cut out the cardboard. Replace it onto the driver and mark the driver.
    Cut and clean the driver to suit replacing it onto the guide post and using a blued liner to check your work.

    Ally is a great medium for doing this with, if you are concerned with the post changing position too much after the guide post drives the aligner out of you can either make one up in the form of a C as per the previous post with something of similar wall thickness to support the post but realisitcally once the liner is in the first support it should just keep working its way down squarely if you apply the pressure evenly.

    If you want to go old school with it, just make the driver up, 5 thou undersize of the liner supports, dome the top of it and beat it in with a hammer.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  7. #7
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    Keith,
    What about making a pattern and casting it in aluminium? I seem to recall that you have a lathe and a furnace,

    Cheers Charlie

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    My bad missed a step in my haste to write it up for you, Relevent section in blue below missing step in red




    Theres also a couple of obvious omissions in there but if you're at the stage of doing liners in an engine you should be able to spot the shortfalls of the writing and run with the intent.

    (no, its not my best set of instructions ever so no, I wont be offended if they dont make complete sense and you need them rewritten)

    And I've just re-read your post, you get it easy.

    when it comes to the stages of machining.....

    Machine an aligning plate that is the ID of the lower liner support, give it a lick with some sand paper (you want it not quite press fit, it should sit there with a coating of light oil/coolant as adhesive) then bore the center to make a post hole for the guide post
    machine your guide post to the ID-5 thou of the liners you have then cut the step to support the driver and a post for the lower aligner
    Machine the OD of the driver to id-5 thou of the liner supports
    stand the driver on its end, drop the guide post in then drop the liner over the guide post, wrap it tightly in cardboard then trace out the face of the liner.
    remove the liner and the cardboard, cut out the cardboard. Replace it onto the driver and mark the driver.
    Cut and clean the driver to suit replacing it onto the guide post and using a blued liner to check your work.

    Ally is a great medium for doing this with, if you are concerned with the post changing position too much after the guide post drives the aligner out of you can either make one up in the form of a C as per the previous post with something of similar wall thickness to support the post but realisitcally once the liner is in the first support it should just keep working its way down squarely if you apply the pressure evenly.

    If you want to go old school with it, just make the driver up, 5 thou undersize of the liner supports, dome the top of it and beat it in with a hammer.
    Thanks Dave. I think you have nailed it this time
    Ill pass that on to the workshop boys next time I go to town

    Keith

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