Thread: Series disc brake conversion --- I did it my way

Hi Mike

Gary is in the final stages of a second version which will use after-market callipers designed for race cars and off road racers. They will require minimal modification of the vehicle.

However, on a Series 1 there will be issues. Gary's system is engineered using a 6cyl/Stage 1 brake pedal, dual circuit master cylinder and 8" dual diaphragm booster as well as Series 3 hubs. You will have to use an alternate brake master cylinder, it is possible to fit the 6cyl pedal and booster to the S1 86/88/107/109 firewall but will require mods. You may also be able to use a dual circuit M/C and in-line booster but this will require discussions with Gary and the engineer.

It will be possible to fit the brackets to the S1 swivels (and also the rear for 4 wheel disks) but you will need to have SIII hubs or the very late SIIa hubs with the push in studs. The early SIII hubs are a direct replacement for S1 hubs.

Everything on the wheels can be reversed in a couple of hours dissassembly and re-assembly.

Hi Mike, me again.

Just remind me, the Master cylinder on your S1, does it have 2 bolts or 3 to mount it onto the chassis outrigger? Also if 2: are they aligned horizontally or vertically?

Was questioning this because it may be possible to use the same dual circuit master cylinder as on the booster, adapted to operate directly off the pedal linkages. Then you would need to fit something like a PBR-VH40 booster in the line to the front and you may not need to boost the rear system.

Also in case you asked, you shouldn't have both disk brakes and drum brakes in the same single circuit hydraulic system. Given the rules around modifications, this sort of brake upgrade would usually only be accepted by the authorities if you changed to a dual circuit.

Diana

Just wanted to add a quick note in here for those that are interested - Gary came up to Glenreagh for the SLOw weekend in his disk brake converted Series III FFR. I spent a long time looking over it, and chatting to Cookey, who is one very clever Cookey...

This is a great conversion. Not just the work on the disks themselves, but the thought and execution of the entire brake system to make the whole system work properly as a package.

You won't find better anywhere, guaranteed.

Although I have done a lot of work myself trying to sort out a viable 'cheap' option, there is no way I'm going to come close to this, and my attempts look very amateurish by comparison.

Once I've got the Rover 6 installed in my Series III and it is on the road, I will find it hard to pass up buying this conversion myself.

I know a lot out there are looking or something 'cheap' but if it is possible it won't come close to this. Save up your dollars - I will be.

Cookey is also one hell of a nice guy who is very happy to chat about everything Land Rover and he gave me some great pointers and advice regarding the 2.6 I've got stashed in my trailer ATM.

Great to meet you Gary.

Cheers - Gav.

anyone got contact details to get up-to-date P&A?

Cookey is away for a couple of day's, he knows about the contact request and I'm sure he will follow up in when he returns if not before.

Diana

Originally Posted by debruiser

anyone got contact details to get up-to-date P&A?

PM sent

cookey

Mr. Cookey:
I'm very impressed with your amazing job. So impressed to join this forum althought I'm from your antipodes (aprox N39º, 0º).

Do you know what is the stopping distance from 80 km/h to 0 with standard brakes?

My '77 109 2 1/4 diesel has dual circuit and santana servo (8" diameter, x 1.75 boost, according to workshop manual) and 11" drums in all wheels (because it is a Land Rover Santana built in Spain). I recently purchased it and I'm refurbishing it.

I did some theoretical calculations (because I can't drive my car until i get the brakes fixed), and it seem to me that I should get when full 1 Ton payload about 44.5 meters from 80 km/h to 0.
And with 1760 kms + 140 kg (driver, and things) it should do 30.6 m if no rear skidding because of dynamic weight transfer.
But I think that 33 to 36 m were more realistic ( assuming a coefficient of friction road tyre of 0.7 and 70/30 weight transfer in sudden braking), and problems of rear wheels blocking.
If I'm not wrong and the data ifound to do the calculations it's correct:
-full loaded 2760 kg 80 km/h to 0 = 44.5 m
- 1900 kgs 80 km/h to 0 somewhere between 30.6 m to 36 meters.

I found very impressive to stop in 27 meters, because it means 0.93G, or mu = 0.93 friction coefficient between your 4x4 tyres and the very good asphalt in the facility you did the test.

And did the calculations without servo working:
- 2760 kg 80 to 0: 77.9 m
- 1900 kg 80 to 0: 51.6 m




I hope that new goodridge braided hoses, four new drums and all new wheels cylinders Delphi Lockheed will help in acheiving the theoretical results. I'm waiting for the spare parts come from England (because they were cheaper than spanish supply).

I realized that drums diameters were too big according to workshop manual. >281 mm and 282 mm at the rear (maybe rebored). 11 inches are 279.4 mm so 70% of Volume in Master Cylinder was needed to fill the extra diameter in each drum, so brakes did not start to work until you pushed very deep with foot. And twice because some air and leaking front wheel cylinders.

Should I expect a improvement in my brakes once fixed?
Are theoretical assessed values realistic?
Did australian land rovers come with the same braking setup as mine? OR had they the 6in servo with dual circuit is present?

the santana servo fitted as standard into the 88 was a 6in with 1.5 boost when 500 mmHg vacuum present. Do you think these are the same specification than british/australian land rover servos?
¿are STC1816 servos 6" of diameter ones?

As a disk brake conversion I think that yours is the best one I found.

Hi Cookey, Im new to this scene and im very impressed with your disc brake conversion. Ive had a similar sort of idea myself however I don't have access to the required machinery ie lathe etc. I was wondering if you could possibly quote me a part number and supplier for the dual diaphragm booster you used on your conversion. I was going to try to use VT commodore style discs and calipers as I can get as many of these as I want. I will be doing a comm V6 engine and auto trans conversion as I am unable to drive manual vehicles anymore. Another question if I may, Would you consider selling a complete disc brake conversion to me?? Thanks in advance. Cheers Rod.

Hmmmm as I said im new to this. I just read all the posts and im sorry for being an idiot. seems like a fair price for being able to stop after going through water. I'll have a serious think about your offer though. Cheers Rod.