Thread: Classic RR Timing chain issue

How did you align the marks when reassembling? Just by eye? And what brand/type of sprocket and chain?

The brains trust on here will be able to tell you of being able to check without taking the timing cover off, I'm sure. Be something like measuring TDC on no. 1 piston has both valves tightly closed.....?

Chain was generic from England-E-Bay. Yes assembled by eye. Perhaps I should have invested in up-market chain-but could still be off. Camshaft was not changed-had no significant wear. Old chain + gears similar markings, but gear castings were much better quality than replacement. Replaced because chain was to slack for specifications.

This will sound dodgy but does work, you could move each lead on the dizzy cap around 1 spot.

Originally Posted by redrovertdi

This will sound dodgy but does work, you could move each lead on the dizzy cap around 1 spot.

That changes ignition timing - not valve timing.

Garry

When the engine is at no.1 firing TDC the valves on cylinder no.6 are rocking, ie one just opening, one just shutting. You should be able to judge rocking valves on no.6 and see how far out the timing mark is. One tooth is quite a bit of crankshaft rotation.

When I did my engine I used Rollmaster timing gears and chain on new cam and lifters. The multiple keyways are there to allow advanced or retarded cam timing in 2° increments up to +/- 6°. Problem was when I dialed it all up, I needed to use the +4° keyway just to get true 0º timing! I would have been in a real bind if I'd just chucked it all in at 0º and hoped for the best.

The short answer is if you are in doubt, you're better off taking off the timing cover and rocker cover to check with a dial indicator and degree wheel. It's the only way to be sure, and you're going to have to go in anyhow if you find the timing is wrong.

Redrover has the wrong end of the stick.

What would be the symptoms of one tooth out in either direction?