Thread: Acceptable Current Leakage?

Easy to check to see if any other circuits are drawing current. Pull each fuse and stick your amp meter across where the fuse goes. With a decent battery, you should be able to run the clock for months without it going flat - my classic hasn't been started for 5 or 6 weeks, it is only running the clock, but it fired straight up this arvo when I ran it.

Me thinks there is something else dragging a bit of power...

try disconnecting the main charge wire from the alternator to the battery, too. they can draw power if the rectifier is faulty and leaks off to earth.

jc

Thanks Justin C- alternator just been changed - was doing before the swap - new one was tested and refurbished before install

bacicat - will try that once connect battery again - hope I can find it

Amp meter on dash not work - would it draw power if faulty?

Skiboy

Originally Posted by Skiboy

Amp meter on dash not work - would it draw power if faulty?

Skiboy

No, I would imagine the shunt in that has died - no big deal. Even though the alternator has been checked, JC has a good point which had slipped my mind. It would be worth the 2 minutes it would take to disconnect the main wire from it and check your current draw again.

Then check each fuse - it will at least narrow it down to the circuit that is causing you issues.

Failing that, stick a battery isolator on it...

Cheers - Gav

Jaycar (and others) sell a blade-fuse adapter to allow your multimeter to plug in, so you can measure current in a fuse circuit.

Good excuse to go out and spend money, keep the GST topped up and Aunty Julia's Superannuation healthy.

140 miliamps is a heck of a current when "nothing" apart from the clock is working.... Never know a leakage to fix itself, only get worse if its a chaffing wire.

When you disconnect the alternator, put your meter in and measure -if any- the current flowing. Should be none.

I wouldn't bother sticking a multimeter into every fuse socket. Just disconnect the positive battery terminal and hook your 10 range meter up between the positive battery cable and the terminal. Fit a 10A line fuse (or big halogen bulb) to protect the multi meter. Then unplug every fuse/circuit in turn until the current drops. Don't forget the radio memory feed.