Thread: OK I still have a miss in the D2 TD5 Ideas?

Fuel Pressure Regulator?
Diesel Pump?
Without a Nanocom or similar it's really just speculation which, as OffTrack says, is not an economical way to maintain a Td5 D2.
This was taken from the Saffa LR forum: "At 4000rpm the TD5 will run outa steam without a very specific fuel map", also "on a std TD5 you should hit limp mode on the MAF around 4000rpm".
This is all just my guess work so perhaps someone more experienced will be able to shed light, but I think 4000rpm is a bit excessive
EDIT
4000RPM in first gear?......
You mean it won't change up to 2nd until 4k or are you holding it on 4k with it in 1?

4000RPM in first gear?......
You mean it won't change up to 2nd until 4k
or are you holding it on 4k with it in 1?

It changes by itself at full throttle at about 4k in normal drive not sport.

Seems unlikely that LR will program limp home below gearchange revs. In any case as soon as it changes gear it goes well immediately, not after restart.

The trans is fine AFAIK. I changed the filter and oil for transmax Z, Only 50% change so far , but no change in behaviour except smoother changes. The sump was quite clean with no big lumps in oil or on the magnet.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

It changes by itself at full throttle at about 4k in normal drive not sport.

Seems unlikely that LR will program limp home below gearchange revs. In any case as soon as it changes gear it goes well immediately, not after restart.

The trans is fine AFAIK. I changed the filter and oil for transmax Z, Only 50% change so far , but no change in behaviour except smoother changes. The sump was quite clean with no big lumps in oil or on the magnet.

From said Saffa site:
"I have a 4 speed ZF Auto and it sticks in first gear in the morning or when cold and is reluctant to change up from 1st gear. Once the gearbox has warmed up it shifts normally. Why?
The governor valve is sticking, which can be caused by contamination. i.e. clutch plates or other parts disintegrating. The fine debris finds its way past the filter and tends to accumulate in the governor, causing it to stick. A temporary solution is to remove and clean the governor. The problem will often recur as debris from damaged parts continues to build up in the governor. If the problem continues after cleaning the governor then it may be necessary it replace your Autobox.
We have noticed many customers reporting this fault starting a few days after an oil and filter change and after researching this using our experience and the expertise of others in the trade we have come to the conclusion that as ATF oil is a detergent type oil, when the oil is changed this will dislodge and stir up settled debris in the autobox which in turn jams the governor valve. In light of this although it sounds controversial it is debateable if changing the oil and filter is a good idea, some say if the box it going to fail it will fail if the oil is good or bad and their advice is leave it alone. I am still undecided but the truth is I get a lot of calls from customers thinking they are looking after the autobox by servicing it and a few days later this fault occurs."

Hopefully this isn't what you've got.

Hopefully this isn't what you've got.

No completely different.
It changes fine when cold and fine when hot.
Full throttle upshift should be at 4200RPM.
Disco II td5 auto upshifts at full throttle - YouTube

My ENGINE drops out at 4000RPM which of course then forces a shift.
Regard sPhilip A

Like I (and you) said, get it hooked up to a diagnostic computer.
Other than that it's just educated (not even that sometimes) guesses.
Probably digging myself a hole here, but then again that's my SOP.
So engine has a miss at 4000rpm under load.
Try these, as I'm no good at regurgitating technical info.
Devon 4x4 Forum :: Topic: TD5 cutting out between 3500rpm and 4000rpm (1/1)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...gging-out.html
Sorry if these are no help, but I'm still on my L's

Marry her 😋

Originally Posted by PhilipA

I have a small problem with my new old D2 TD5 auto 2002 EU3.

The problem is that it has a miss at WFO at 4000RPM in first , like a rev limiter. It drops out then immedioately changes gear to second. sometimes it may drop out occasionally between 3and 4 K revs under flat foot

I have
cleaned MAF,
cleaned MAP,
new air filter., new fuel filter,
Tested wastegate opening, tested wastegate actuator,
replaced boost modulator
replaced injector loom.
cleaned red plug.
The thing is that the drop out is EXACTLY the same after all of this maintenance so I assume it is none of these things, although it could be a dud MAF or MAP I guess. However it changes gear perfectly in normal driving so my understanding is a dud MAF causes strange gear changes.

The wastegate rod has 13 threads visible so AFAIK this is as it left the factory

I know I Know get a nanocom, but any other ideas? In my anal way I want to have it running perfectly before I do any changes like deleting the EGR, as if you do not have an accurate base you don't know what change has what effect.
Regards Philip A

My Defender did the same thing, turned out to be peaking out the MAF.
Although mine is remapped with other mods.
A modified MAF stopped it and all good now.
Try disconnecting the MAF and see what happens.
If that stops it see if you can get a hold of a Nanocom and get a readout with the Maf connected.
These guys have the modified Maf.
Performance Tunes

Cheers,
Paul.

Hooking up to a Nanocom is going to be your best bet as this will let you see what the ECU is reading from the sensors.

It's not a perfect solution as the Nanocom logs to file at ≈1 second intervals which means you often miss peak events in the data. Even so you can see the broad trends, and for things like over boost conditions there are other tell-tales like manifold absolute pressure readings of exactly 100.00kpa that result from the ECU limiting.

I'm not 100% sure of the actual limit on the MAF but I was reading up on OBD-II PIDs and the maximum airflow reading allowable under that standard is 656 point something kg per hour. As the Td5 MAF readings clock over to 0 at around this point, I'll take a punt on this being the maximum reading on the Td5.

If you have a genuine or Siemens/VDO MAF I'd be very surprised if you were getting readings above the designed limit with a stock Td5. This usually only happens if you have a VNT, although I have seen very high readings when I've had over boost problems. If someone has installed a cheap pattern MAF then all bets are off as these have been known to over-read.

While there isn't a Nanocom on your doorstep, there are a couple of members listed on the Members with Diagnostic Tools map on the north side of Sydney that might be able to help out with a diagnostic session. Xtreme looks to be about 70km drive away from Avoca Beach and is probably the closest listed member with Td5 support.

https://maps.google.com.au/maps/ms'm...35642,0.883026

You'll need to PM via AULRO to get in contact with any members listed.

30 minutes of recording the fuelling inputs while driving the Td5 will give you a very good idea of how the majority of sensors are responding. At very least you'll know what they are reading rather than speculating whether they are ok or not.

cheers
Paul