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Thread: D2 V8 Wont start after replacing Auto?

  1. #1
    Roverlord off road spares is offline AT REST
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    D2 V8 Wont start after replacing Auto?

    After spending the last 2 weeks pulling out the Auto and replacing it with another, I finally got to the part of refilling the trans fluid on dark tonight .
    I put 2 and a bit litres in and it started to drip out, so I go to start the her up to pump the oil trans fluid through and the damn thing cranks, but doesn't start up.
    ??? I put nanocom on it and did a learn security function, I tried the reset adaptive values, on trans and also on engine.
    Can't see why it won't fire, after all it's pretty basics, remove and refit starter, remove and refit 02 sensors, plug in XYZ switch , plug in the auto cable, transfer temp sensor wires and diff lock wires.
    Being a trans out of another vehicle is there anything else I should do?

    I haven't checked the battery voltage yet, so maybe it's down. Too stuffed to look anymore tonight.
    Cheers, Mario


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    check the security system doesnt have you locked out and that the auto is talking to the engine.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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    Tilt switch tripped? (Rubber covered button on passenger side firewall near engine.)
    Coil packs forced against firewall and harness plugs undone?

  4. #4
    Roverlord off road spares is offline AT REST
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Tilt switch tripped? (Rubber covered button on passenger side firewall near engine.)
    Coil packs forced against firewall and harness plugs undone?
    I was just thinking of checking the coil plugs, as that happened once before.


  5. #5
    zedcars Guest
    My first thought is the crank sensor!!!

    Does the engine crank and produce sparks and a fuel pressure?

    You will not usually be able to read a fault the crank sensor since it lights up the ECM.

    Did you strain the harness where the sensor plugs in during r' n' r of the tranny? Normally the crank sensor socket is held by a forked bracket on the back of the passenger's side head. The main harness plugs into it before in runs back to the transmission and its component part of the same harness/ loom. It has a few support brackets down to the tranny case. If the sensor socket is just hanging out it might have got strained apart. hence no connection and "no startie"!

    For info the crank sensor socket is very delicate and when it is installed it can easily be fitted in such a way that the pins are displaced in the main harness female socket, especially if it was offered in a clumsy fashion in the past! It might have worked with partial engagement until disturbed by you changing out the transmission.

    A bit of a fiddle to get to but expect to see bat voltage and ground (earth) on each of the pins and a reference signal of about 2.5 volts on the signal pin socket when switched on.
    Best of luck
    Dennis
    zecars

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    Does it have a "Park/Neutral Inhibitor switch", if so is it connected and working, Regards Frank.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tank View Post
    Does it have a "Park/Neutral Inhibitor switch", if so is it connected and working, Regards Frank.
    Yes P/N inhibitor switch, and it is a recent replacement that works fine, All Dash indicators are correct with the floor shift lever position, and lever displays correct gear.
    I can Crank it only in park and neutral as it should.


  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by zedcars View Post
    My first thought is the crank sensor!!!

    Does the engine crank and produce sparks and a fuel pressure?

    You will not usually be able to read a fault the crank sensor since it lights up the ECM.

    Did you strain the harness where the sensor plugs in during r' n' r of the tranny? Normally the crank sensor socket is held by a forked bracket on the back of the passenger's side head. The main harness plugs into it before in runs back to the transmission and its component part of the same harness/ loom. It has a few support brackets down to the tranny case. If the sensor socket is just hanging out it might have got strained apart. hence no connection and "no startie"!

    For info the crank sensor socket is very delicate and when it is installed it can easily be fitted in such a way that the pins are displaced in the main harness female socket, especially if it was offered in a clumsy fashion in the past! It might have worked with partial engagement until disturbed by you changing out the transmission.

    A bit of a fiddle to get to but expect to see bat voltage and ground (earth) on each of the pins and a reference signal of about 2.5 volts on the signal pin socket when switched on.
    Best of luck
    Dennis
    zecars
    I don't understand what you are saying. The crank angle sensor on the V8 4.0 motronic engine is on the passenger side (Left side in Aus), it is on the block and has a sensor pin that protruded into the bellhousing where it gets its tooth count from the ring gear/ flywheel. The flywheel has a passage cut into the casting and is notched. I never removed the crank sensor as it's pin is protected by the flywheel and it is not in the way of taking and auto in or out.


  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Tilt switch tripped? (Rubber covered button on passenger side firewall near engine.)
    Coil packs forced against firewall and harness plugs undone?
    The inertia switch is supposed to be on the left hand side ( passenger side) of the firewall, as I said supposed to be, but not on mine, There is a Zavoli Zeta ECU bolted to the fire wall and a MAP sensor, but no inertia switch to be seen, I even checked the other side at the brake booster not there either.Go me bemused where it is
    Didn't spend much time on it today due to other commitments. But will have to check out if fueling is the problem.
    I tried the emergency LPG start procedure for the Zeta, but had no luck getting it to start on LPG. Turn the key and the little switch over panel lights up for only a few seconds then goes off.


  10. #10
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    Update, coils are not firing on some cylinders, so suspect crushed coil pack.

    One thing I needed to do today was replace the left hand engine mount it was U/S.
    So here's another problem to jack the engine up far enough to remove the engine mount, the engine rises and the back moves to the firewall, senario again the coil packs make contact with fire wall.
    So off comes the plenum again to check the coils.
    Some say drop the engine mounts to lower engine to get to the coil packs, thought that was a good idea, but, to lower the engine you need to raise it enough to pull the mounts before you can drop the engine to tilt the front down, but in this process again the coil packs touch the firewall.
    regards, Mario


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