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Thread: 300tdi turbo re-core

  1. #1
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    300tdi turbo re-core

    Just thought I would hare my experience of replacing the turbo core on my disco.

    After having spent some considerable coin rebuilding the entire engine, as posted on here, I was looking for a cost effective way to replace the turbo which gave up the ghost within minutes of starting the engine for the first time after the rebuild.

    I found these on ebay T250-04 TURBO Charger CARTRIDGE/CHRA/CORE for LANDROVER 300TDI | eBay

    and for the price I thought it was worth a go!

    So it is a pretty easy job to do:

    Once you have the turbo/manifold assembly out of the vehicle remove the oil supply and return lines and clean up any oil and grime on the inlet housing.


    Use something very permanent to mark each housing relative to a notable physical feature on the turbo core. Take a photo if you like, this is to ensure you get a three pieces back together in the same orientation.

    Use whatever clamping system you have available to you to restrain the assembly while you undo the 4 bolts that retain the core in the exhaust housing. These bolts are 1/2" not 13mm heads, I used a blow torch to heat the exhaust housing around each bolt while I applied pressure with my extended (1" ring spanner) 1/2" spanner. After a few minutes of heating each bolt came out pretty easily.

    If you are lucky, the core will just come straight out, but if you are me, you will have to hit the core sideways with a hammer to convince it that it is no longer required. Applying heat to the housing will also help your cause.

    The inlet side housing is retained with a single, very large and stiff internal circlip. you need a decent set of circlip pliers that dont have smooth outwardly bent tips. Guess how I know. You will also need to apply some WD-40 or similar to help free it up as it has a wedge shape profile to ensure the housing is firmly held.

    Once the circlip is off the core may need further persuasion before it parts company with the inlet housing. I found that a concrete block was the perfect size to support the housing while I hit the compressor shaft through the inlet.

    As my turbo had melted, I then had to spend some time with a wire brush attached to my drill in order to clean up the inside of the exhaust housing before re-assembling everything but hopefully you won't have to do that

    I have only driven from the sunny coast to brissy, so can't comment on longevity of the particular item I purchased, but as a repair it was all pretty straight forward. Just remember to pre-oil the oil inlet before you start the engine!

  2. #2
    jobin Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Matplat View Post

    I have only driven from the sunny coast to brissy, so can't comment on longevity of the particular item I purchased, but as a repair it was all pretty straight forward. Just remember to pre-oil the oil inlet before you start the engine!
    Hey, I just finished refurbing my engine and now the turbo is leaking oil into the intercooler pipes I came across this post and now I'm thinking of doing the same thing. Wondering how the everything is going a few months on? I'm in Melbourne not far from these guys so I was thinking of going and picking up a new core sometime this week. Hopefully even cheaper than the fleabay price

    yeah so any insights you have would be appreciated!

  3. #3
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    Hey mate,

    I've actually sold the vehicle a few weeks ago!

    However the turbo performed faultlessly while I still had it, made swooshing noises at all the right times you wouldn't even know it was a fleabay special! I would definitely buy another if I had to.

    I sold the vehicle to the brother-in-law of one of the users on here 'mattg'. If you hit him up, he should be able to tell you how the vehicle is performing. They give a 6 month warranty, which although it isn't the best is still an indicator that it isn't complete crap.

    The only thing I will re-iterate is marking the housings so they go back together the same way. The position of these will control your peak boost (by changing the tension on the wastegate valve spring), neither over or under boost is desirable (although overboost less so for obvious reasons!)

    Cheers, Matt

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by jobin View Post
    Hey, I just finished refurbing my engine and now the turbo is leaking oil into the intercooler pipes I came across this post and now I'm thinking of doing the same thing. Wondering how the everything is going a few months on? I'm in Melbourne not far from these guys so I was thinking of going and picking up a new core sometime this week. Hopefully even cheaper than the fleabay price

    yeah so any insights you have would be appreciated!
    My guess is the turbo is fine, your engine has too much blowby and that is causing the y turbo to spit oil.

  5. #5
    jobin Guest
    Hey Matt,

    Thanks for the info. I'll take your word for it and try and get a replacement core in sometime this week. There is a lot of play in the shaft so a replacement won't hurt. Are there any other seals that need replacing that don't come with the core?

    Thanks,

    Jono

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Just digging this one out of the vault, as I just got my new cartridge from the UK. So, thanks for this.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  7. #7
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    So, got mine apart. Two of the bolts holding the turbo to the manifold came out after a lot of Lanox and a bit of a warm, once I got them moving. The third was a mongrel, had do keep turning it back to go a little bit forward. The fourth one broke as soon as I put leverage on it Grrr. So, a bit of drilling to do. good thing they're short. Had to butcher the old cartridge to get a ring spanner onto the head. Can't find my slim 1/2" spanner. I have to build a garage.

    The turbo has around 3mm play in the shaft, might account for the lack of boost.

    Old.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    New.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    Meant to spool up around 500 RPM earlier, plus a little more boost. Hope so. Intercooler next, then exhaust, when I can afford them.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  8. #8
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    Oh. Yes. That circlip is a beauty. New pliers were needed.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  9. #9
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    Drilled the broken bolt, now have to re-tap and hope for the best.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by johntins View Post
    Just digging this one out of the vault, as I just got my new cartridge from the UK. So, thanks for this.
    Can you tell us the name of your UK supplier and 'emmachisit'?

    I'd like to read their claims for better performance. There seem to be good quality, 12 month warranty, standard replacements going for about $250 - and cheap & cheerful ones for under $200 (probably not good value), so I'd to see what your mob claim and their price.
    Ian &
    Leo - SIII 109/GMH3.3
    Daphne I - '97 Disco 300Tdi Manual
    Daphne II - '03 Disco Td5 Auto

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